Carcassonne-La Cite

Sat 13 May

The weather is overcast and drizzly this morning and we are in two minds as to what to do. When in doubt, go for a drive. We find ourselves not far from home on flattish country west of
C-M. We are surrounded by vineyards and I must say it is very pleasant. A sign to Carcassonne seals the deal and we head off for the largest walled-city in Europe. There is a legend that asserts that the wife of a Muslim ruler in the Middle Ages, Carcus, threw a force fed pig over the battlements when the city was under siege by Emperor Charlemagne. The pig split open and the troops below despaired at the thought the castle had so much food it could feed pigs like so. Consequently, the siege was lifted and the troops retreated. Bells pealed out in celebration and the people cried "Carcas, sonne!" (Ring,Carcas!")

C'mon Phillip, what Muslims would have pigs? Ed.

Just so. That's why it is a legend! More acceptable is that the name has local language roots: carac, for 'rock' (after the spur on which it is built), and sonne, for "wood" (for the forests which surrounded it). A lot less romantic isn't it?

From our earlier posts you would have deduced that Carcassonne is a modern town with all the commercial, retail, medical,and other services that you could want. Obviously, this all grew from something and that something was a settlement as far back as between the 8th and 6th centuries BC. An oppidum (hill fort) was established on the plateau overlooking the Aude river. There is evidence to suggest that the entity probably played a role as a trading centre between local goods and products from the Mediterranean world. Oppidums were being built on similar summits as a means of protection but also to survey passing foreign merchants.

A Roman consul traveled the Languedoc and Provence regions by elephant in 122BC as a conqueror. Rome's authority was accepted as it enhanced trade with Italy.... particularly in wine.

As a point of interest, Hannibal also used elephants in this area.

Over the centuries, Carcassonne passed through the hands of Romans and Visigoths and developed its defences. Its golden age began in 1082 under the Trencavel family. In association with the Count from Toulouse , Trencavel became very powerful in the area controlling knights and other noblemen. His vassals built against the Gallo-Roman walls of his castle thus expanding the city which eventually ended up with a 'suburbia' of 16 boroughs.

The Cathars sect drew their inspiration from the Gospels but their view of man's relationship with God, which was spiritual, and their relationship with the material world, which was Satanic in origin, clearly differed from the Pope and his clergy. The Catholic clergy resisted paying their taxes and were disliked by the feudal lords. Thus the lords supported the Cathars.

The Cathars led an ascetic life, seeking to rid themselves of their mortal coil, asserting that all souls were good and that all souls would be saved. They preached a form of Christianity that was very different from the Catholic Church's teaching. This 'heresy' threatened the established Church and the pope, Innocent III, summoned a crusade against the Cathars and their supporters. This of course included the young Trencavel even though he was a Catholic. Sourcing crusaders was not difficult as the opportunity for plunder and acquisition of land, and a promise by the Pope of a passport to Paradise drove prospective recruits. Sounds a bit like the Muslims of today...nothing changes really.

The 'Albigensian Crusade' began with a siege at Carcassonne in August 1209. Trencavel surrended to the crusaders thus saving the lives of the population who fled to Toulouse and to as far away as Spain.

The city, its wealth and the Trencavel's land was handed over to Simon de Montfort, an unscrupulous lord who continued the crusade against the Cathars until his death in 1218. Each day here, Donna and I witness sights and read the history of this cruel and violent period. This history is well remembered.

In 1226 the Cathars were recovering. Raymond VII de Touslouse and Trencavel were ex-communicated from the church by the Pope. A new crusade began led by King Louis VIII. The people of Carcassonne along with other major centres, were tired of war and capitulated peacefully to the King.

The fortress was enhanced at this time by an outside circling the inner fortifications. We walked between these two walls on the area called 'the bailey' which averages about 25 mtrs wide and circles some 1.5 kms.

In 1240 a rebellion against the King's authority in Carcassonne was led by Trencavel.... it failed and the rebels fled. Trencavel died in 1247 at the time that the now King Louis IX forgave the inhabitants and authorised their return. Unfortunately their houses had been destroyed and they settled on the bank of the river where the modern city of Carcassonne grew and is now overlooked by the restored La Cite.

I hope historians will forgive any transgressions of fact and I realise I have ended the story abruptly although there were significant historical events that occurred in the meantime e.g. The One Hundred Years War. My sources have been pamphlets and guide books however, I think you should get the general picture.

As you approach the city today it looks a bit like Disneyland. In its well restored environs shops and restaurants compete with the 'riverains' or local population. We look forward to a more in depth visit next week with Graham and Barbara C.

Donna and I had lunch in the city and we took the 12 euro option. I selected 'cassoulet' while Donna had lasagne. Our first course, of course, was French onion soup. We had a half litre pichet of red 'vin de pays' which cost 4 euros.

One of the great experiences in the local cuisine is cassoulet. It has its origins in the 100 Years War when the besieged French in Castelaudry created a mixture of beans and meat which saw them outlast the British. It is a simple but tasty baked dish of white haricot beans and garlic cooked with bits of sausage and either beef, pork or lamb meat. In the one I had there was a drumstick of duck in it.... yummy!

Sun 14 May

At home. Great to talk with Mum for Mothers Day. Both Julie-Anne and Phillip called on Skype to speak with Donna.