The Sounds of Angels

Fri 19 May

We are off to Toulouse today to pick up Graham and Barbara C. when they arrive from Paris on the TGV ( very fast train) at Gare Matabiau around 1630hrs. We decide to take the A61 toll road from Carcassonne to Toulouse , a distance of 106km from C-M. The toll costs 6.10 Euros and if you want to get anywhere quickly it is the go. Donna is keen to get there early as she wants to see the Basilica Saint Sernin. Our Tom Tom indicates that the Jean D'Arc parking area is close by and with little trouble it guides us to right on the spot.

On the way to the Basilica we see the opportunity to change our American Express travelers cheques at one of the many banks in this large, commercial city. Not one would change them and we were repeatedly referred to a money change office on the marvelous Rue Tauro. The lady here was reluctant to change them as she felt the 6% commission was too much and she referred us to the Banq Cortois. This bank offered the Amex cheques for sale but would not change ours and, you're right, they referred us back to the office in Rue Tauro. We declined the offer and will take the matter up with American Express. We will never use Amex cheques again as it has now been three cities that we have been unable to change them. Travelers beware!

The magnificent Basilica Saint Sernin was built in honour of a martyr saint, Saturnin, first Bishop and martyr of Toulouse, who lived in the 3rd century. In 250 he was killed after refusing to make a Pagan sacrifice. He died after being dragged through the streets by a sacrificial bull. The Rue de Taur and the church Notre Dame du Taur commemorate the bloody route and the death of the Saint.

The death attracted many pilgrims over the years and a worthy stopping place was necessary. The Basilica was built in the 11th century and was consecrated in 1096 by Pope Urbain 11. Work continued to the 12th century and again through to the 16th century. Architecturally, the building is at the forefront of the family of 'relics and pilgrimage' churches. At 115 metres long and 64 metres wide, it is the biggest Romanesque church in the world. Toulouse is known as the city of red bricks, and this building reflects that in that the stone used initially became too expensive and consequently, locally made red bricks dominate the exterior. The altar, choir and ambulatory are simply splendid and any visit to Toulouse must include this building.

Graham and Barbara's train arrived only a few minutes late and the scene at the station was worthy of any Hercules Poiroit scenario. The milling crowds, general hustle and bustle, and eccentric people offered a marvelous view of contemporary French behaviour. I could not help but rudely stare at the individual carrying a rat on his shoulder, and the lady whose multi-coloured clothing was only outshone by her multi-coloured make-up and hair.

After a refreshing shower for our guests we sat down to a table of fresh ham, tomatoes, onions, avocado, four types of cheeses and, gloriously 'chewy' bread. We toasted ourselves with 'Blanquette de Limoux' and a fine syrah/mouvedre blend from Chateau Donjon. It seemed appropriate to accompany our coffee with a couple of glasses of 'Muscat de St Jean de Minervois'.

Well nourished, we headed down to the Abbey for the first major activity of the annual 'Fete du Marbre' or 'Celebration of Marble' held in Caunes- Minervois. The administrative region we live in is the Aude. The choir, 'Choeur Departemental de L'Aude' is programmed to sing a number of Protestant and Catholic chants in the main church of the Abbey. I was concerned that this might have been a 'bum- numbing' experience. It was in fact an extremely moving and inspirational performance of a 60 person choir singing in an 11th century church. The vibrancy and tone of the music fitted naturally into this ancient building and one could not help feeling that the place had been built just for this purpose...a great experience we all enjoyed.