You Call That a Beach?

Mon 15 May

It's time to dip a toe into the Mediterranean so we head off towards the seaside town of Gruissan via the city of Narbonne, a round trip of about 150kms. Regrettably, the weather is very overcast with a promise of drizzle.

Before I get into this, Donna has urged me to make my outpourings easier to read. Reminiscent of Queescliff Paper time! Anyway, I have reviewed back to Hong Kong, made more paragraphs and, double spaced them. She was right, damn! I have also added a few photos and time permitting I will go back and add more.

I had not seen red poppies in a field before and they are now springing up along the sides of the roads and in uncultivated areas. I immediately thought of Flanders and also the poignant use of poppies for remembrance back home...sad.

The price of petrol is a shocker over here. Currently, 98 octane averages 1.40 Euros(2.35AUD) whilst 95 octane is 1.33 Euros (2.23AUD). Gazole or diesel such as our car uses is 1.2 Euros(2.01AUD) per litre.

We once again avoid the toll road and enjoy the 65kms trip to Narbonne on the N113 road, a prettier, less frantic drive. Our initial impression was ho-hum as we approached Narbonne but, after parking and walking to the city centre, we were soon captivated. Narbonne has a population of over 45,000 and, like Carcassonne, has a history going back to the 7th century BC when it may well have served as a harbour and market. In 118BC the Roman Senate decreed it the town of 'Colonia Narbo Martius' and it became a strategic crossroads along the Via Domitia, a section of which was discovered under the town square recently.

Over the centuries it went through the hands of invaders and had its ups and downs until after Charlemagne created the duchy of Gothe with Narbonne as the capital. The Archbishop and the Viscount shared the spoils. From the 14th century, the change in the course of the Aude River, the havoc caused by the Hundred Years War and plague, and the departure of the large Jewish community caused Narbonne to decline. It is now described as a lively Mediterranean city playing an important role as a wine producing centre (Corbieres AOC), and a rail and road junction.

The quite beautiful Canal de Robine runs through the town and in places houses are built over it. The city square is surrounded by shops on three sides and the Palais des Archeveques on the other. The Palais is now a combination of towers originally the Archbishop's Old and New Palaces. Between these towers is a 19th century restoration which we think detracts from the essence of the buildings. Behind all this are administrative departments,a shop, museum, and gallery.

Through an old stone portal you are suddenly in the wonderful 14th century cloister of the Cathedral St Just et St Pasteur. The first stone was laid in April 1272. By 1332, the building activity was postponed as the nave and transcept would have breached a rampart which was deemed essential during those troubled times. No further work was done until the 18th century. What is there of the cathedral is magnificent in its true Gothic style. We will be back to spend more time here.

The sea is about 8kms away and we arrive at Gruissan seeing a lake, lots of boats...and a long straight canal intended to provide access to the sea. The remainder of Gruissan was fairly ordinary and the salt production facilities could not draw us in. One section of the river had significant resort style development of reasonable standard...but where was the beach? We followed the canal to where it joined the Mediterranean but all we could find in terms of beach were scrubby mud flats. The seaside (?) Gruissan Plage was distinctive for its rows of elevated beach houses raised up on stilts. I really don't know who would have a holiday there.

I think if we had driven further west along the coast to Narbonne Plage we might have found better beaches. I will let you know after our next visit.