A Labour of Love

We have had two extra house guests over the past four nights and, although cozy with six in the house, the days hectic, and the food and wine seemingly never ending, it has been a most enjoyable time.

Wed 25 May

Shane and Lynnelle are a young professional couple whom we have known through our daughter for about 6 years. They departed from Australia last February to travel for about 12 months and, until recently, have been travelling the African Continent. From wondrous safaris in the south, befriending Masai warriors, cruising the Nile on small native boats and, to the mystery and allure of Morrocco, they have had a wonderful time. More recently they have explored Spain with their favourite location being San Sebastion.

We were delighted when the opportunity arose for them to stop-over in Caunes-Minervois before they head to Cannes for 10 days on Sunday. They are then on to Paris where they will lease a Peugeot to explore Western Europe before moving to Great Britain. They will then have Eastern Europe, the Americas, and finally Asia before returning home...green with envy am I!

I pick up S & L from Carcassonne rail station this evening. In the meantime we do some supermarket exploring with Graham and Barbara and also seek to find a computer connection for Graham's (really Barbara's birthday present) new Nikon camera. Would you believe there is no standard connection size and my Sony lead would not fit! No leads were to be found but a digital Card Reader solved the problem allowing download from camera to my computer and the burning of a CD. QED.

Dinner for the six of us tonight at the renowned Hotel D'Alibert in Caunes-Minervois. There are two significant mansions that stand around the town square. The Hotel Sicard (14th century) with its corner mullioned window and Hotel D'Alibert (16th century) which opens on to a beautiful Italian-style Renaissance courtyard surrounded by galleries adorned with carved busts. A decorated well sets off the courtyard.

We ate and drank at a superb level with only me opting for 'Tete au Veau" which is essentially the face of a vealer. You may go 'ugh' but the taste was sublime as the different textures melted in the mouth. I regret my fellow diners did not share my gastronomic adventurism....why else are we here?

Our wine for the evening was by Luc Lapeyre, an independently-minded wine maker from the small town of Trausse next door to C-M. He has gained local and national acclaim and it showed through.

Thu 25 May

Donna's cold has freshened up and she decides to stay home while the 5 of us drive off to 'La Cite' - the walled city in Carcassonne I described in a recent blog.

All were most impressed and with the extra time available, and better weather we were able to explore the city quite well. Firstly, we took a motorised train around the perimeter or ramparts of the city which gave a good idea of its size and purpose. The cathedral, shops and restaurants on the north of the city are more attractive than those seen previously. In the afternoon we took the English spoken guided tour of the fortified nucleus of the city, the Chateau Comtal. Our guide was quite an attractive lady whose fantastic accent brought a sense of romanticism to the experience.

Fri 26 May

Probably the biggest day of our trip so far. Donna had seen much of the proposed itinerary and she opted for another rest day.

We started by driving up the perilously narrow road into the Montagne Noir or Black Mountains which overlook C-M. Through Citou then up to Lespiniere which to me is the most beautiful mountain village I've seen so far. Over the mountains now to Cabrespine to see the massive 'hole in the mountain' known as the Gouffre de Cabrespine. This proved to be somewhat of an anti-climax as it was closed for lunch when we arrived at midday!

Across the way then some 12 kms to the Chateaux de Lastours which are the ruins of the four castles pictured in an earlier blog. We enjoyed baguettes in a local cafe by the sparkling, bubbling stream running through Lastours and then back to Cabrespine.

All very impressive to our guests as was our next stop in the village of Bagnoles - the 15th century 'Chateau de Donjon' where Jean Panis and his wife Caroline carry on the centuries old family wine making business. The winery was built on even older 13th century buildings which included a 'keep' from which the word 'donjon' (dungeon) stems.

Donna and I had met Caroline a couple of weeks ago and I was delighted she remembered the 'deaf Australian - Phillippe'. She speaks French, Spanish and English and her presentation of the winery's product was fabulous. The caveau or cellar was built in 1280 or thereabouts. We all bought wine and personally, I'm looking forward to a return visit.

We arrive home around 1730 hrs to a well laid table of bread, cheese, pate and rose wine as we prepare for our evening of food (!) and jazz in the 12th century cellar under the Abbey. The musicians that Graham and I had met at the Fete de Marbre last week had organised the evening and we were very warmly welcomed. About 60 or 70 people attended and the atmosphere created by the lights on the ancient stone ceiling and walls; the smell of sangria, gazpacho, and paella; the beautiful voice of the jazz chanteuse backed by a competent 4 piece combo was altogether 'formidable'. Graham and I were the last to leave sometime after midnight.

Sat 27 May

The plan today is to return to the canal-side restaurant, La Peniche, at Homps to enjoy a meal under the shady walnut trees in the courtyard.

Prior to lunch however, we boarded a traditional 'gabare' for a two hour cruise on the Canal du Midi. At a speed of no more than 4 knots the very quiet and smooth operation of the boat reveals why a holiday on the Canal is so popular. Gliding under old stone bridges and learning why they are arched rather than square ( to do with flow mechanics) and negotiating a lock up 5 mtrs or so was fascinating. I still maintain that Riquet, the builder of the canal in the late 16oos was a genius.

The setting for lunch was perfect with veal, entrecote, and grilled salmon the mainstays. Pichets (jugs) of local red and white wine with fresh bread and cheese again hit the spot. Flavoured ice cream and sorbets were especially tasty.

Understandably, were all a little tired this evening but not so much so that we did not enjoy, you guessed it, bread, cheese, pate and salad. The Merlot from Chateau Donjon....bliss!

It did not take long for sleep to come after we stoically sat through a romantic comedy on DVD - 'Love Actually'.

Sun 28 May

Away at 0730 hrs to drop S and L at Carcassonne station for their train to Cannes. We will miss them and their lively, generous, good-humoured company.

Today has been decreed a 'make and mend' to allow for running repairs and rest before the next touristy onslaught. Regretfully for me, I have had to make the effort and get the blog up-to-date, and for Donna, to type it....a labour of love!