The Holy Blood and the Holy Grail

Mon 12 Jun

At Caunes Minervois.

Tue 13 Jun

Rested and re-charged we headed south of Carcassonne into the general area known as 'Les Corbieres'. A plateau, rather than a mountain range, the Corbieres is nevertheless very hilly and roads in the area twist and turn as they follow stream beds cut into the slopes. A spiny, sweet-smelling shrub called 'garrigue' is commonly found where there are no trees.

The Corbieres had strategic significance particularly from the 13th century onwards when its fortresses were ready to confront any Spanish incursions. Old castles are prolific and we will visit them on another trip.

Our first stop was at Limoux about 30 kms south of Carcassonne. Here is the hub of production of 'blanquette', a sparkling wine made from Mauzac, Chenin, and Chardonnay grapes using the 'methode champenoise'. We had a tasting at 'Sieur d'Arques' cellar and bought a couple of bottles.

Into the mountains next to Alet-les-Bains. This ancient little village is known for its hot springs which the Romans were first to use for the water's curative powers. An old 17th century bridge crosses the Aude River into the town which, like Caunes-Minervois, has narrow streets and very old stone houses. The Abbey of Notre Dame is a well maintained ruin in the middle of town.

We had hoped to have lunch at the village of Arques some 15 kms away. Alas, it was closed. We took only the time to photograph the 'Donjon d'Arques'. The remains of the walled perimeter and the striking tower of this 13th century Cathar castle are truly beautiful.

Back down the road and up to the very popular Rennes-les-Baines which is built up either side of a thermal spring running through the town. We had a lasagne, pizza, and a demi-pichet of Rose in the town square.

On now to Rennes-le-Chateau. This village is dramatically perched on an isolated hilltop with panoramic views in all directions. Our interest was in the church of the Catholic priest Fr Berenger Sauniere.

First occupied by the Gauls and then by the Romans, Rhedae, as it was then known, was a fortified stronghold. It was caught up in frequent and often religious conflicts. Exhausted by these wars, Rhedae finally succumbed to the plague and sank into virtual oblivion.

In the late 19th century, Berenger Sauniere was appointed priest of the somewhat run-down parish. He restored the church and embarked on an ambitious series of building projects. He built into the church and grounds many mysterious symbols. The presbytory, gardens, walls and especially the library were outstanding however, where did he get the money from? Some say he found the Holy Grail or reference to it and the church paid for his silence hence the 'Da Vinci Code'. Others maintain he found a Cathar treasure. The lust for treasure in the area has been so great that it has been necessary to pass regulations to stop people digging for treasure around the town and church!

Overall an interesting day and we are looking forward to a return visit to see the many castles.

Wed 14 Jun

At Caunes Minervois.

Thu 15 Jul.

I have been using 'Skype' to talk via the computer particularly to Julie-Anne and Phillip. This is a great program and allows for extended and free conversations provided the other party has downloaded Skype. Today I purchased $16 AUD of 'Skypeout' time which allows calls to any telephone. The rate from France to Australia is 0.017 cents per minute. An unexpected benefit was the better quality of sound. I have rigged the speakers I use with my Ipod to the laptop and use the microphone from my headset. Highly recommended.