Paris...Into Open Arms

It would be romantic to begin this episode of our story along the lines that 'I left her at the airport last August and dreamed that once again I might return to her seductive beauty and open arms...'. I won't because that would be just too corny!

Sat 3 Jun

TomTom was right on the button as it delivered us to the Toulouse Matabiau rail station. The TGV is a superb train with, in first class, all the comforts of an airline's business class without the hostesses. The seats are spacious and the ride is very quiet and smooth considering it is capable of speeds up to 300 kph. The trip to Paris via Bordeau took 5 hours. We traveled using a Rail Europe 'France Saverpass' which provides for travel to any destination on any 3 days within a month. Our First Class pass cost 320 Euros.

Our apartment is on Rue Vielle du Temple in the 'Marais' district situated on the Right Bank. The area has become trendy over the past few years and the many boutique type shops, bars, and cafes are well patronized. The Marais is also a focal point for the Jewish community who were expelled from France in the Middle Ages. When they returned after the Revolution they chose this area to settle in. Victor Hugo and Picasso lived in the area and Picasso's house, which is now a museum, is nearby.

The Marais also hosts a large and active homosexual community which you can hardly miss. It was interesting to find that some bars are designated 'straight-friendly'!

Beyond the narrow streets, much of the accommodation is built around large and well-maintained courtyards. Entry from the street is through large and impressive doors set into sturdy stone walls. Our building probably dates from the early 1900s and our apartment was on the 1st floor. It had an entrance hall, living room, kitchen/dining room, bathroom and double bedroom on the first level and our loft double bedroom was up a flight of very, very steep stairs. Our window offered great views of life down on the street.

After settling in we all went for an evening stroll along the Seine.

Sun 4 Jun

We had decided that the four of us together would not work for touring as we had different expectations and visit requirements. However, we saw generally the same things albeit on different days.

Donna and I had planned to spend our first day at the Louvre. As we approached it along the riverside we saw that it was extremely crowded and there was a queue at least 800 metres long... far too many people for us to enjoy a visit. The first Sunday of each month is free admission and the hordes were lapping it up. We decided to walk home the long way.

Adjacent to the entrance to the Louvre is a mini Arc de Triomphe with a chariot and horses on its top, known as the Arc du Carrousel. It was built for Napoleon in 1806/09. Bands and orchestras from around Europe were playing under the Arc and marching girls, baton twirlers, and pom pom teams performed to the music. They drew a big crowd and were fun to watch. Stretching from this point runs an axis along the Jardins des Tuileries, onto the Champs-Elysees, and up to the majestic Arc de Triomphe. The gardens were once the setting for a palace and are well laid out and form a gallery for many sculptures and other works of art. Fountains surrounded by large circular pools provide a place for children to push toy sailing boats into the wind.

At the end of the gardens, and just before the Place de la Concorde, is the Musee de L'Orangerie. After a quick lunch on the run of crepes from one of the many food trailers we visited the museum. A great many of the more modern artists are represented including Cezane, Renoir, Modgliani, Derain, Utrillo and Picasso. However, the 'piece de resistance' is the large elliptical gallery housing Monet's massive 'Nympheas' masterpiece. The beautifully coloured canvas of over 90 metres is in 8 panels each of which covers over 10 metres on each of the four sides of each gallery. Magnificent!

From the L'Orangerie we passed through the Place de la Concorde which is the city's largest square. In 1792 the centre statue of Louis XV was replaced with the guillotine for Louis XVI, Marie-Antoinette, and many more luckless souls. The major elements now include large and very French lamp posts, the Luxor Obelisk, and wonderfully ornate fountains describing navigation over the seas.

Rather than continue up to the Arc de Triomphe we turned right along the Rue Royale towards La Madeleine. We notice on both sides of the road the shop fronts of major brands such as Chanel, Dior, Bvlgary, and so on. It was Sunday and they were closed. In fact we are surprised at how much of France is 'closed' at any given time. Searching for succinctness to describe France in general and Paris in particular, the words 'closed', 'holiday', and 'out-of-order' spring to mind. How they manage to achieve so much with the amount of 'down-time' evident will probably always be a mystery to us 'etrangers'.

La Madeleine began as a church in 1764 then, on Napoleon's orders became a Temple to the 'Grand Armee' in 1806. It became a church again in 1845 and is the venue now for many society weddings. The squarish looking building is ringed by huge fluted Corinthian columns. Inside we listened to the massive organ rehearsing for a performance later in the evening. Also impressive was the major painting in the chancel depicting the history of Christianity with Napoleon prominent in the foreground!

As we continue through the Marais towards home, the existence of the Jewish community becomes apparent. A marble tablet affixed to a boys' school poignantly reminds of the 140 students taken by the 'barbarous Nazis with the aid of the Vichy Government' during WWII and only 8 surviving. There are some long memories here. I think the philosophy is to forgive but never to forget.

Mon 5 Jun

The Louvre is on our agenda for today and rather than walk we take the 'Metro' from the 'Hotel de Ville' station down the road. Barbara had organized three-day Paris travel tickets which allow for train and bus travel throughout Paris. I think all the passes I have talked about can only be bought in Australia before leaving. The Metropolitan (Metro) is fast, cheap, clean, efficient underground rail transport which only takes a short time to understand. The frequency of trains is the first thing you notice with no more than 3 minutes to wait at any time. Furthermore, every train we caught (they become habit forming) was at least 50% full and more often 80-90%. The only down side we could find was that many stations only had steps rather than escalators. Moving from one line to the other, in the same station, can mean three levels. Difficult if carrying luggage but overall a score of 9/10. Like Singapore and London, the Metro sets a good example for growing cities.

The Louvre has cast a spell over Donna and me and this visit served to increase the enchantment. We had a quick look at our old favourites: the Winged Victory; the jewels and paintings in the Galleri de Apollon; Mona Lisa; and some Dutch and Flemish paintings. The main interest for us this time however was the history of the Louvre; Ancient Egypt; Coptic Egypt; Islamic arts; and the Decorative Arts. As for the latter, we concentrated on Napoleon III's opulent apartments. It becomes apparent when you look at the wealth and self-indulgence of the pre-Revolution period just why the attitudes of the common people were as they were. Sad really, as there is evidence all over Paris of the mobs' desire to destroy and much beauty was lost forever.

At the end of this, our second visit, we realise we have not yet seen the half of it. One can charge through the galleries and scan the place. To stop, and really look and appreciate, is the real pleasure. Maybe that's the hook for another visit to France.

Tue 6 Jun

The four of us are off together today until lunch to visit Notre Dame and Les Invalides. Surprising to many is that the Cathedral Notre Dame de Paris is built on an island in the middle of the Seine. The original St Etienne Basilica was built in the 6th century upon an old Gallo-Roman temple site but, by 1160 it was considered old and not befitting the King so it was demolished. In its place the construction of a Gothic style cathedral commenced in 1163. Over the years the building developed and it can be seen that different architects built in different ideas. The two major towers were completed in about 1245. During the Revolution, the monumental and decorative statues were badly damaged. By the 1800's the Cathedral was in a poor state. Fortuitously, Victor Hugo's novel 'The Hunchback of Notre Dame" was published in 1831 and this drew attention to the building's condition and restoration commenced. Interestingly, Henry VI of England was crowned here and Napoleon made himself Emperor here. In 1909, the beatification of Joan of Arc was hosted in the church and her statue is inside.

Graham and I climbed the 300 odd steps to the top of the towers where we saw at close hand the bells in their wooden belfrys as well as the various 'chimeras' or fantastic statues that peer out over the church. The 340 steps back down the 69 metre high tower were nearly as demanding as those going up.

Donna was impressed with the stained glass in the Cathedral and in particular the massive 'rose' window.

Les Invalides was built as a hospital by Louis XIV for wounded soldiers and at one stage 6000 invalids were housed within it. The complex contains a unique double church. One end is for the soldiers whilst the other was built for the King and each has its own separate entrance. Since 1840, the latter has been a mausoleum containing not only Napoleon's red porphyry tomb but also those of his relatives and generals.

Les Invalides is the home of France's impressive war museum exhibiting an awesome array of weapons, armoury, and militaria. Surprising to see was the armour fitted for the Kings as children.

We had a most respectable 'plat de jour' at the nearby Cafe Vauban named after a French general. In the afternoon Donna and I took the Metro to the Opera House station to find Rue Scribe,the French home to American Express where, at long last we were able to cash our Travelers Cheques. As I said in an earlier blog "never again"!

Two Metro trains later and we arrived at the base of the Arc de Triomphe. Built from 1806-1836 on a decree from Napoleon, the triumphal Arc was constructed in a Roman style to the glory of the Grande Armee. Between 1833-1836 some 20 artists completed sculptures on the sides and face of the monument to represent significant military events. The 'Unknown Soldier' lies beneath the main archway and a daily ceremony involving the Flame of Remembrance is conducted. We got the elevator to the top of the structure and enjoyed great views of the city and of the seemingly endless late afternoon traffic. For those that must know, the Arc is 50 metres high, 45 metres wide, and 29 metres beneath the vault of the archway.

This had been a big day and sleep came easily.

Wed 27 Jun

Donna is keen to see the stained glass in the Cathedral once again so we take a leisurely stroll down the Rue Vielle du Temple, across the bridge, and onto the 'Ile de la Cite'. In fact this is where Paris began around 250 BC when a tribe of Celtic Gauls, the Parisii, settled on this convenient bridging point of the Seine. Romans and others followed and it went on to become the centre of religious and political power into the Middle Ages.

On the area in front of the Notre Dame known as the 'parvis' you can see the traces of the old streets. There is also a brass marker, Point Zero, set into the ground and from which all distances in France are measured.

Under the parvis is the remarkable 'La Crypte Archeologique'. Excavation in the 1960s revealed 16 centuries of history layered one upon the other. Roman quaysides, ramparts, medieval cellars, shops, and pavements can be identified. From the 18th century is the outline of the Foundlings Hospital and the 19th century contribution is a sewerage system. We found the very practical floor heating systems of the 16th century houses fascinating. Built into the foundation of the houses were vent tunnels connected to an external furnace. Hot air was channeled through the vents and into terracotta flues which were built up under the stone floors. Very clever.

We took the Metro to near the foot of the Eiffel Tower and had lunch on the footpath outside a small cafe. We met a strikingly attractive young Aboriginal woman traveling with her white-skinned father. We had a delightful conversation with them and found they were originally from Darwin but lately from Brisbane. She was on her way to a scholarship in the USA whilst her father was off to Geneva, then Estonia, to visit relatives. We also had a great discussion about cricket with a fellow from Liverpool (UK) and his Dominican Republic wife. They were visiting Paris for the day from England.

We boarded a Seine river-cruise boat for a one hour round trip. Quite a good way to get a different perspective of the city. Not the least surprising was the number of people living in small tents along the river walks and under the bridges. Impressive also was the 20-something hostess on the boat who effortlessly swung between five languages.

A call from Shane and Lynnelle saw us in a taxi and down to the Louvre for coffee and a chat. Their stay in Cannes was obviously very much enjoyed. Lynnelle was denied entry into the casino in Monaco because she was not carrying her passport! The six of us had dinner at the 'Philosophe' restaurant near our apartment where the mains varied between lamb, steak, prawns, and monk-fish, the so called poor man's lobster... Donna and Barbara were delighted with it.

Thu 8 Jun

Graham and Barbara left for London by the Eurostar train and we had an uneventful TGV trip back to Toulouse and then drive to Caunes-Minervois. We were surprised to find a chill in the air compared to the warm, cloudless weather in Paris. Well, almost cloudless. I recall that after 9/11, planes were grounded across the USA and researchers were able to measure the 'dimming effect' when there were no aircraft vapour trails. The study revealed that an extraordinary amount of light is dimmed and at the same time, heat from the earth is held below the vapour line level. Fortunately in Australia we don't see this as much as is apparent in the USA and Europe. Although the weather was meteorologically cloudless, we never saw a clear sky!

Fri 9 Jun

A deserved rest at home and composing the blog.