Off To Gay Paree

We leave Caunes-Minervois for Paris tomorrow morning at 0630 hrs. The drive to Toulouse to catch the super fast train will take about 1.5 hours and we should arrive in Paris at about 1500 hrs. Graham and Barbara have organized an apartment in the 'Marais' district so we are not far from all the action. I will compose the 'Paris Blog' on Donna's and my return to C-M on 8 June. Barbara and Graham will visit London before heading back to Australia around 13 June.

In the meantime I need to bring us up to date.

Thu 01 Jun

B & G have not seen Narbonne and the forty kms drive seems a cinch after Wednesday's effort to Roquefort and back. Different to our last trip to Narbonne is the Thursday market. Market Day is a way of life over here with every village and major centre having a food and produce affair or a more general goods market on a designated day of the week. I think I might have already mentioned the Carcassonne food market where we bought half a kilo of 40 Euro cheese!

At Narbonne it was general goods and not unlike those seen around Australia, save for the size and variety of goods available. The stallholders are extremely well organized with some even selling from specially adapted semi-trailers. The colour and activity was a delight and I know Barbara has a Grandmother's surprise to take home. Donna and I bought some leather goods.

Before settling in to a brasserie for lunch, B & G were treated to the Bishop's palaces and to the stunning Cathedral St Just et St Pasteur. The gardens surrounding the church are blooming and it was a delight to return.

Lunch 'al fresco' on the edge of the city square or 'place de l'Hotel de Ville' was a pleasant surprise in that the food preparation was as good as most quality restaurants in Australia. For main courses, Donna and Graham had truly delicious lasagne, Barbara had fish of two varieties, and I went for duck on endives cut in the taglietelle fashion. The ladies could not resist nougat icecream floating in a raspberry sauce. Graham and I thought the Corbieres AOC rose was just right for the warm sunny spot we had.

When we got home, Donna pulled a trick from up her sleeve with an evening meal of the 'Holy Trinity' accompanied by a Roquefort quiche she had bought yesterday. Wine was a German riesling from Alsace Lorraine followed by a local Chateau Donjon blend.

Fri 3 Jun

It was decided a few days ago that we would celebrate the final day together in Caunes-Minervois with a lunch at the extraordinary Hotel d'Alibert under the relaxed but quality care of the host, Frederic. However, before lunch Graham and I visited Christophe at the Domaine Maillols in Villegly. His first red vintage is due to be bottled and it was evident that he is very excited about it all. He first must get approval to place the Minervois appellation on his labels. This requires his wine being assessed by 20 tasters to ensure it meets the necessary level of quality. We tasted from all his tanks and were treated to a sample from his one and only French oak barrel. We wish him and his wife Annabelle good luck.

With a Spring clean of the house done, we arrived at the restaurant at 1230 hrs. After taking our orders, Frederic personally selected the wines he believed would best set off our food. The white was a local 'vin de pays' which we probably would not have given a seconds thought to from the wine list. This 2001 Domaine Bonhomme perfectly complemented our entrees of a selection of meat and pate (Graham), Omelete (Donna), Gazpacho (Barbara), and Pate Foie (Phillip).

When you thought it couldn't get better, out came a perfect Osso Bucco for Graham, Duck l'Orange for Donna, Lamb for Barbara, and Guinea Fowl for yours truly. Sauces in France never,ever mask the basic taste of the beautifully cooked food. Indeed the sauce is a food in its own right. The accompanying vegetables not only tasted superb but looked as they tasted. We were all impressed with the potatoes which Frederic insisted were only prepared in cream and a light garlic. We begged to differ but he kept his secret...we suspect perhaps nutmeg. Whatever it was, it tasted brilliant as did the straight Syrah red from Domaine Pugol (2002)

Our course of cheese, which always comes before desert, was basted (?) in a clear honey. Deserts included brulees, a caramel dish,and for me a combination of 'pastis' and 'licorice' icecream. We were all feeling at ease with the world as we sipped our espressos to conclude a memorable lunch in perfect surroundings. Luckily for Donna and I, we will be able to return to the scene over the next 40 days or so.