I Just 'Lerve' Minerve

Fri 30 Jun

Minerve is about 20 kms from Caunes so, after a fairly relaxed morning, we set off to arrive there around mid-day. One approach to the town provides a panoramic view and in the hot, clear weather the first glimpse of Minerve, sitting upon its massive rock in the middle of a complex river system, is breathtaking. The vineyards in this 'terroir' are very stony and it is quite something to see the very healthy vines emerging from a base of white stones. Before reaching Minerve we took a slight detour into the village of La Caudette which hangs from a sheer rock face and appears suspended above the river. Some houses in the village seem to be nothing more than caves with brickwork as decoration!

Minerve excites because of its geographical position with deep ravines surrounding it. It held out well against the Albigensian Crusaders however, technology in the form of large catapaults capable of hurling large rocks across the gaps, soon saw it capitulate. Resident Cathars, rather than denouncing their beliefs, threw themselves onto the burning pyers. Their spirit is remembered in a poignant sculpture, set adjacent to the Church, and depicting a bird in flight.

Before touring the town we had lunch at the Chantovent restaurant where Jeff had his first taste of truffles. I think he was underwhelmed by the experience.

After lunch we took a back path down into the gorge which circumvents the village. We discovered ancient houses and caves which had terrifying creatures looking out of them to scare invaders away. A replica of the wooden catapault shows simplicity of design and an efficiency in its operation. The river flowing around the foundation of the village is dry at present and we were able to follow its course underground through massive caves.

On the way home we stopped off at Rieux-Minervois to visit the very unique and uncanny medieval monuments in France...the seven-sided church......which I recently described in this blog.