The Holy Trinity

A short preamble. Thank you John in Brisbane and Liz in Adelaide for the remarks concerning your enjoyment of the blog. I must say that sometimes I wonder if 'anybody is there'! I know Jacquie, Brett, Kel, Mick and of course Jeff, all keep a lookout. Selfishly, I know it's for Donna and me in the long-run nevertheless, I do try to be interesting for all.

Tue 30 May

Basically another rest day however, washing, housekeeping, and shopping must go on. Received our first letter-box mail today. Our tickets for the 'Corrida Concours' or bullfight at Fenouillet near Toulouse on 2 July, have arrived. This event runs over four days and the Sunday evening performance (?) caps it all off. Donna and I are still not too sure about this so-called cultural experience. I will let you know.

I took Graham and Barbara to see the 'Notre Dame de Croix' church on the edge of town this afternoon. The church has had some sort of a presence since the 8th century and it stands at the entrance of the 'Gorge of L'Argent Double'. On the top of this feature, and on both sides, are worked-out and active marble quarries. Discovered by the Romans over a thousand years ago, the distictively coloured red and white marble adorns all the regional churches and buildings and is also found in the 'Paris Opera' and in the castle at Versailles. We found the walk up to the workings on the marble strewn road very exhausting. However, the marble and the sweeping views were marvellous.

We dined at the Argent Double Pizzaria. Three of us had wonderful pizzas which concentrate on the filling rather than the base. Donna had a ghastly entrecote with vegetables which is the first really bad meal we have had in France. Not even a glass of local red from the 3 Euro pichet helped.

Wed 31 May

Graham has mentioned several times how much he has enjoyed the Roquefort cheese Donna has come up with for dinner. A trip to Roquefort-Sur-Soulzon seemed in order and at 0830 hrs we set out on the 175 km drive.

Our 'TomTom' indicated that the fastest and shortest routes were over the narrow, winding roads of the Montagne Noir we had already experienced. A longer but more straightforward route was to Bezieres, then 100 kms or so north west on a motorway. This seemed too easy, so the compromise was to head north from a point about half way to Bezieres into the Orb Valley within the 'Parc Naturel Regional Du Haut Languedoc'. With 'TomTom' and the road directory in support, we worked our way on mountain roads literally upwards to St Chinian. Then came Roquebrun, Tarrassac, and a good road to Herepian. Secondary roads again now to St Gervais-Sur-Mare, Brusque, Camares, and to St Affrique for lunch.

The Espinouse Mountains are not too high and most of the roads we travelled were no more than 800 metres ASL. The peaks, valleys, and rivers were glorious to see in the Spring sunshine notwithstanding it was windy and the temperature hovered between 11-15 C.

Roquebrun was particularly beautiful with its wide river overlooked by houses balconeyed up the hillsides and all dominated by the ruins of a castle/fort. Many people 'whitewater raft' from futher up the Orb River back down to the town known locally as the 'Petite Nice' as it's micro-climate mirrors that of Nice on the Cote D'Azure.

St Affrique is a large town on the La Sorgue River. We checked out its very beautiful church before finding a brasserie for a 'plat de jour'. Three of us took on the lentils and sausage dish whilst Donna attacked a 'hoki' fish offering. A demi-litre of rose provided the necessary zip and it was off to the home of the 'king of cheeses' at Roquefort-Sur-Soulzon about 15 kms away.

I wrote about the cheese last week but since the tour today I think I have a better handle on it. A million years ago, a massive subsidence saw a stretch of land 2km long, 300 metres wide, and 300 metres deep, shear away from the side of the Combalou plateau. This disintegration formed a gigantic heap of rocks with natural faults and caves. These great caves have been lined and fitted-out to form cellars. The cellars are naturally ventilated via the cracks in the rocks and this air keeps the temperature at 8C with a humidity of 95%. Air exchanges at the rate of 1,200,000 cubic metres per day.

This unique environment was found to support perfectly adapted micro-organisms called Penicillium roqueforti. The basic cheese is made with local ewe's milk and under stringent conditions, it is seeded with the bacterium. 48 holes are pierced into each block to allow development of the mould through the cheese as it ripens from between 14-25 days. The air continuing to support the growth of course. To slow and stop this growth each block is individually hand-wrapped in tin foil. With the air excluded the cheese matures over a period of 4-12 months. About 3,500,000 cheeses are made by the 'Societe' company alone and they export to 75 countries. It must be added that this cheese has been around for a long time. Pliny The Elder wrote in his 'Natural History' in 76AD the existence of a cheese much appreciated in Rome. In the 8th century, the Emperor Charlemange received two mule loads from Roquefort every Christmas in his palace in Aix-la-Chapelle (Germany).

All in all a pretty good day and it will make the Roquefort eating experience all the better in the future. I opted for the straightforward way home making it in just over two hours. It had taken us 4.5 hours to get there!

Dinner tonight was the usual ecclesiastical experience...The Holy Trinity...bread, cheese, and wine.

Nearly to Spain in a Little Yellow Train

Mon 29 May

A 0700hrs start today as we take to the road to Villefranche de Conflent via Perpignon for our three hour 'Le Train Jaune' trip over 64kms to Latour de Carol in the Pyrenees.

The roads are pretty clear when we leave C-M however, we come to somewhat of a sudden stop around 30kms into the trip when we confront two semi-trailers parked across a narrow road. The driver of one has left his truck and is engaged in conversation with the other driver! Traffic stacks up behind us as both drivers seem oblivious to the delay they are causing. A car emerges from between the trucks from the other direction and I decide to take the chance and find a way through. Happily, our car and a congo line behind me, thread the needle. Selfishness seems a trait of the characters in this part of France and particularly with parking where no rules apply!

On now through Perpignon which is a city of 450,000 and we manage to slot nicely into the morning peak hour. This makes navigation more difficult but with the 'TomTom', and Graham's eye to the map, we find ourselves with only 60 more kms to go. We leave behind the vineyards as we skirted the Mediterranean and now see more general cropping in the fields as well as many cows and horses.

Villefranche de Conflent dates back to the 11th century and, above the railway yards, we notice Fort Liberia, which had been fortified by Napoleon 111, dominating the Tet Valley and was long used as a prison. Up over the mountains from here is the Catalan countryside known as The Cerdagne and runs up to the Spanish border. The area is actually two magnificent mountain ranges cradling a very large and beautiful valley.

The 'Yellow Train' was established in the early 1900's as some political 'pork-barreling' to bring new life into the impoverished mountain valleys. It is now essentially a tourist train however, the Certagne is anything but poor with its substantial ski slopes in winter and beauty in the summer bringing hordes of visitors. The train is bright yellow in colour (We gathered that Phil. Ed.). It is narrow gauge and is powered by an electrified third line. Two normal carriages are at front and rear whilst the centre carriage is 'topless'.

There are 22 stations along the line as it climbs from 427 metres above sea level to 1593 metres at its highest. The train passes through 19 tunnels and negotiates two seriously high bridges. The mountains on either side are still tipped with snow at this time of year and they make a tremendously impressive backdrop to the general scenery. The initial climb is through steep, deep valleys with towering rocky cliff faces reaching above us. The plateau is covered with crops and pasture grasses interspersed with millions of spring flowers competing with their myriad of colours. It is not hard to imagine the place covered in snow and indeed much construction of lodges and houses is underway.

The weather for us was perfect and at our destination, Latour de Carol we had a pleasant walk into town where we had baguettes and juice for lunch. The Catalan influence is very apparent as is that of Spain which borders the town. In our stroll around we noticed Catalan crosses and dates back to the late 1700's on the buildings. I introduced myself to an old fellow in one of the houses who warmly invited us into his courtyard garden. He had rabbits, chickens, and birds in his cages. His house and very large courtyard were covered in flowers and roses. He spoke French to me and taught me a little Catalan. Donna had her photo taken with him and overall it was a great experience.

We had an inside carriage on the way home which kept out the increasing cold. The car trip home was uneventful and a scratch dinner of BBQ potatoes, cassoulet, and salad with a glass or two of merlot sealed a most enjoyable day.

A Labour of Love

We have had two extra house guests over the past four nights and, although cozy with six in the house, the days hectic, and the food and wine seemingly never ending, it has been a most enjoyable time.

Wed 25 May

Shane and Lynnelle are a young professional couple whom we have known through our daughter for about 6 years. They departed from Australia last February to travel for about 12 months and, until recently, have been travelling the African Continent. From wondrous safaris in the south, befriending Masai warriors, cruising the Nile on small native boats and, to the mystery and allure of Morrocco, they have had a wonderful time. More recently they have explored Spain with their favourite location being San Sebastion.

We were delighted when the opportunity arose for them to stop-over in Caunes-Minervois before they head to Cannes for 10 days on Sunday. They are then on to Paris where they will lease a Peugeot to explore Western Europe before moving to Great Britain. They will then have Eastern Europe, the Americas, and finally Asia before returning home...green with envy am I!

I pick up S & L from Carcassonne rail station this evening. In the meantime we do some supermarket exploring with Graham and Barbara and also seek to find a computer connection for Graham's (really Barbara's birthday present) new Nikon camera. Would you believe there is no standard connection size and my Sony lead would not fit! No leads were to be found but a digital Card Reader solved the problem allowing download from camera to my computer and the burning of a CD. QED.

Dinner for the six of us tonight at the renowned Hotel D'Alibert in Caunes-Minervois. There are two significant mansions that stand around the town square. The Hotel Sicard (14th century) with its corner mullioned window and Hotel D'Alibert (16th century) which opens on to a beautiful Italian-style Renaissance courtyard surrounded by galleries adorned with carved busts. A decorated well sets off the courtyard.

We ate and drank at a superb level with only me opting for 'Tete au Veau" which is essentially the face of a vealer. You may go 'ugh' but the taste was sublime as the different textures melted in the mouth. I regret my fellow diners did not share my gastronomic adventurism....why else are we here?

Our wine for the evening was by Luc Lapeyre, an independently-minded wine maker from the small town of Trausse next door to C-M. He has gained local and national acclaim and it showed through.

Thu 25 May

Donna's cold has freshened up and she decides to stay home while the 5 of us drive off to 'La Cite' - the walled city in Carcassonne I described in a recent blog.

All were most impressed and with the extra time available, and better weather we were able to explore the city quite well. Firstly, we took a motorised train around the perimeter or ramparts of the city which gave a good idea of its size and purpose. The cathedral, shops and restaurants on the north of the city are more attractive than those seen previously. In the afternoon we took the English spoken guided tour of the fortified nucleus of the city, the Chateau Comtal. Our guide was quite an attractive lady whose fantastic accent brought a sense of romanticism to the experience.

Fri 26 May

Probably the biggest day of our trip so far. Donna had seen much of the proposed itinerary and she opted for another rest day.

We started by driving up the perilously narrow road into the Montagne Noir or Black Mountains which overlook C-M. Through Citou then up to Lespiniere which to me is the most beautiful mountain village I've seen so far. Over the mountains now to Cabrespine to see the massive 'hole in the mountain' known as the Gouffre de Cabrespine. This proved to be somewhat of an anti-climax as it was closed for lunch when we arrived at midday!

Across the way then some 12 kms to the Chateaux de Lastours which are the ruins of the four castles pictured in an earlier blog. We enjoyed baguettes in a local cafe by the sparkling, bubbling stream running through Lastours and then back to Cabrespine.

All very impressive to our guests as was our next stop in the village of Bagnoles - the 15th century 'Chateau de Donjon' where Jean Panis and his wife Caroline carry on the centuries old family wine making business. The winery was built on even older 13th century buildings which included a 'keep' from which the word 'donjon' (dungeon) stems.

Donna and I had met Caroline a couple of weeks ago and I was delighted she remembered the 'deaf Australian - Phillippe'. She speaks French, Spanish and English and her presentation of the winery's product was fabulous. The caveau or cellar was built in 1280 or thereabouts. We all bought wine and personally, I'm looking forward to a return visit.

We arrive home around 1730 hrs to a well laid table of bread, cheese, pate and rose wine as we prepare for our evening of food (!) and jazz in the 12th century cellar under the Abbey. The musicians that Graham and I had met at the Fete de Marbre last week had organised the evening and we were very warmly welcomed. About 60 or 70 people attended and the atmosphere created by the lights on the ancient stone ceiling and walls; the smell of sangria, gazpacho, and paella; the beautiful voice of the jazz chanteuse backed by a competent 4 piece combo was altogether 'formidable'. Graham and I were the last to leave sometime after midnight.

Sat 27 May

The plan today is to return to the canal-side restaurant, La Peniche, at Homps to enjoy a meal under the shady walnut trees in the courtyard.

Prior to lunch however, we boarded a traditional 'gabare' for a two hour cruise on the Canal du Midi. At a speed of no more than 4 knots the very quiet and smooth operation of the boat reveals why a holiday on the Canal is so popular. Gliding under old stone bridges and learning why they are arched rather than square ( to do with flow mechanics) and negotiating a lock up 5 mtrs or so was fascinating. I still maintain that Riquet, the builder of the canal in the late 16oos was a genius.

The setting for lunch was perfect with veal, entrecote, and grilled salmon the mainstays. Pichets (jugs) of local red and white wine with fresh bread and cheese again hit the spot. Flavoured ice cream and sorbets were especially tasty.

Understandably, were all a little tired this evening but not so much so that we did not enjoy, you guessed it, bread, cheese, pate and salad. The Merlot from Chateau Donjon....bliss!

It did not take long for sleep to come after we stoically sat through a romantic comedy on DVD - 'Love Actually'.

Sun 28 May

Away at 0730 hrs to drop S and L at Carcassonne station for their train to Cannes. We will miss them and their lively, generous, good-humoured company.

Today has been decreed a 'make and mend' to allow for running repairs and rest before the next touristy onslaught. Regretfully for me, I have had to make the effort and get the blog up-to-date, and for Donna, to type it....a labour of love!

Minerve in Sunlight

I understand that navigating around this blog can cause difficulty for some.

Me included!...Ed.

The latest blog written is at the top of the page. To read chronologically you need to scroll to the bottom of the page and read each blog in ascending order. The 'archives' section at the top left of each blog provides the option to read more blogs of any particular month. Finally, I have not mastered the photographs yet and will spend some time getting up to speed for captions and so on. You can however, enlarge each photo by clicking on it.

Tue 23 May

Our last trip to Minerve was in pretty foul weather in direct contrast with today's sunny blue sky. The vantage point I accidentally found a fortnight ago, from a narrow mountain road adjacent to and above the village, brought a gasp of delight from B & G. We think the reason the spot is not designated on the tourist maps is because of the risk of head-on collisions between fast moving French farm tractors and unwary foreigners. The village has much magic about it and we left our guests to find their own way around. We met for lunch at the Chantovent and had the premier seats on the balcony overlooking the gorge which the townspeople and Cathars had so much relied on for their forlorn defence some 797 years ago!

We mixed and matched with our lunches which incuded entres of vegetables and goat's cheese, rabbit pies and, Barbara had a sensational olive cake garnished with bacon strips and sitting in a sauce of superb olive oil. Mains included lamb, pork shanks in spicy crumbs and, fish. Cheese comes before dessert here and a selection of four hard and soft varietys was tasty. Desserts were nougat icecream and fruit and, a wonderful plate of fresh strawberrys in a sauce of Minervois red wine. I decided to do the French thing and take an aperitif before eating and thoroughly enjoyed a 'pastis' which has a strong aniseed taste. Our first wine was a Minervois rose followed by a Gagazourde syrah/mourvedre blend.

It just seemed the perfect ending to a good day to have leftover spaghetti bolognaise for dinner with a 4Euro bottle of Chateau Villegly Moureau, 2004.

Bezieres and the Oppidum Yet Again

Mon 22 May

With the sun sneaking through a cloudy sky we head off for Bezieres to share with G & B the beauty of the cathedral and the wonder of the 6th century BC hill-fort at Ensuerene.

I really did want to see the interior of the church St Aphrodise and of course La Madeleine. St Aphrodise is dedicated to the patron saint of Bezieres and was the scene of the slaughter where the Crusaders killed every living thing. Inside the Church, under the gallery, is the font, a 4th century sacophagus on which the scene of a lion hunt has been engraved. The Eglise de la Madeleine is a Romanesque church also the scene of much bloodshed.

Both churches were closed because it was a Monday...only in France!

Overall the day was good and we christened the new gas BBQ with a meal of Chorizo and Chipolato sausages. If you are thinking boring, well think again. These sausages had a taste unknown in Australia. Donna was unimpressed to find the Chipolatos contained pork liver!

The pictures above show the steaming welcome dropped all over France but particularly in Bezieres and, the BBQ.

La Fete, Le Repas et, Wild Boar

Graham and I decided to drive to a nearby village, Vieux Minervois, to buy cream and other odds and ends from the only supermarket open of a Sunday morning. Unfortunately, an old fellow had a heart attack on the local bridge out of town and the ambulance had blocked off the road. Walking back home we heard the unmistakable beat of a marching band and, to our surprise, found many stalls had been erected around the Abbey and that a great number of people were descending upon the town for the 'Fete du Marbre'.

With the ladies in tow we arrived at the Abbey to find even more artisans than yesterday working away on marble, sandstone and, metal sculptures.
The forges from the blacksmiths gave off a wonderful smell as the hammers clanged away shaping fantastic designs. A fire had been built under a metal tripod from which hung a leg of lamb. Over the next hour or so we returned to this spot to see the inevitable browning of the meat...where has this been all our lives?

Adjacent to the forges were two people using power saws and other intimidating instruments carving extraordinary shapes out of massive blocks of ice.

At 1230hrs the four of us took up our positions in the 'caveeau' (cellar) under the Abbey to enjoy the special 'repas' or meal laid on for those that had booked. Donna excelled herself in communicating with the French speakers at the table. Phrase books were drawn and I must say the day would not have been anywhere near as enjoyable if English had been spoken.

A word on lunch. You must understand that caterers (traiteurs) had been brought in to organise lunch for about 150 people. Out of the back of trucks these people produced a meal acceptable anywhere in metropolitan Sydney or Brisbane. 'Vin de Pays' wine was served with a first course of rockmelon stuffed with smoked ham. Then arrived an experience of canard (duck) in gravy we found to be 'formidable'.This was accompanied by potato filled with champignons. Desert was a 'Bombe Alaska' flamed at the main table.Cherries and Camembert cheese were served with coffee.

Outside again, Graham came into his own as we listened to an outstanding Jazz combo.
His knowledge won them over and after the ladies went home we continued on with three bottles of Chateau Parazols-Bertrau which we shared with the musos. A marching band seemed to be in constant competition with the jazz group. They realized I was Australian and, in good humour, gave great support to the French rugby team. As they played the "Marsellaise' I countered with 'Advance Australia Fair" and the somewhat pathetic 'Go the Wallabies!" I think it ended a draw but the surrounding French people are still trying to fathom out what was going on.

Much to the distaste of Donna and Barbara, Graham and I returned home in high spirits
with a sausage of smoked duck and another of wild boar (sangliere). They chose not to share what we thought was a fantastic, tasty supper.

Fete du Marbre

Sat 20 May

Barbara & Graham had a good nights sleep and enjoyed a breakfast of freshly baked chewy bread with jambon (ham), figs, tomato and avocado. Side plates included fresh cherrys (from our tree), strawberrys and, a selection of three cheeses with Graham becoming very fond of Roquefort. Filtered Italian coffee provided the finishing touch.

Roquefort has hit the mark and we art seriously considering a trip to the village of Roquefort-sur-Soulzon. Legend abounds about the cheese however, in short, caves in the area of Combalou produce a natural mould, Penicillium roqueforte. Ewe's milk is produced in very defined boundaries and is first made into a cheese in which the curd is mixed with the mould. After a minimum maturation period of three months on oak shelves in the especially adapted cellars, the cheese takes on its characteristic blue-green veining.

We walked the streets of C-M with Graham enthusiastically taking every photo opportunity until lunch. Lunch met the same standard as breakfast only including a touch of wine for our stomach's sake. Barbara ponders this idyllic style of nourishment and suggests that food cooked over a heated stove may very well become a rarity in her household.

The artists and sculptors have set up in the Abbey carpark as part of the 'Fete du Marbre' and, refreshed with wine from one of the exhibitors, we tour the demonstrations and temporary galleries. Included in this is a visit to the 11th century Abbey which, even whilst undergoing restoration, is impressive. Particularly so is the 8th century Apse of the very first church built and only recently discovered under the existing building. A picture of the Chevet of the Abbey is above.

Donna has put together one of her splendid spaghetti dishes for dinner and which provides a great accompaniment to Graham's and my comparative critique of a Chateau Donjon and a Chateau Parazols-Bertrou red. Both are Minervois AOC and hard to split.

The Sounds of Angels

Fri 19 May

We are off to Toulouse today to pick up Graham and Barbara C. when they arrive from Paris on the TGV ( very fast train) at Gare Matabiau around 1630hrs. We decide to take the A61 toll road from Carcassonne to Toulouse , a distance of 106km from C-M. The toll costs 6.10 Euros and if you want to get anywhere quickly it is the go. Donna is keen to get there early as she wants to see the Basilica Saint Sernin. Our Tom Tom indicates that the Jean D'Arc parking area is close by and with little trouble it guides us to right on the spot.

On the way to the Basilica we see the opportunity to change our American Express travelers cheques at one of the many banks in this large, commercial city. Not one would change them and we were repeatedly referred to a money change office on the marvelous Rue Tauro. The lady here was reluctant to change them as she felt the 6% commission was too much and she referred us to the Banq Cortois. This bank offered the Amex cheques for sale but would not change ours and, you're right, they referred us back to the office in Rue Tauro. We declined the offer and will take the matter up with American Express. We will never use Amex cheques again as it has now been three cities that we have been unable to change them. Travelers beware!

The magnificent Basilica Saint Sernin was built in honour of a martyr saint, Saturnin, first Bishop and martyr of Toulouse, who lived in the 3rd century. In 250 he was killed after refusing to make a Pagan sacrifice. He died after being dragged through the streets by a sacrificial bull. The Rue de Taur and the church Notre Dame du Taur commemorate the bloody route and the death of the Saint.

The death attracted many pilgrims over the years and a worthy stopping place was necessary. The Basilica was built in the 11th century and was consecrated in 1096 by Pope Urbain 11. Work continued to the 12th century and again through to the 16th century. Architecturally, the building is at the forefront of the family of 'relics and pilgrimage' churches. At 115 metres long and 64 metres wide, it is the biggest Romanesque church in the world. Toulouse is known as the city of red bricks, and this building reflects that in that the stone used initially became too expensive and consequently, locally made red bricks dominate the exterior. The altar, choir and ambulatory are simply splendid and any visit to Toulouse must include this building.

Graham and Barbara's train arrived only a few minutes late and the scene at the station was worthy of any Hercules Poiroit scenario. The milling crowds, general hustle and bustle, and eccentric people offered a marvelous view of contemporary French behaviour. I could not help but rudely stare at the individual carrying a rat on his shoulder, and the lady whose multi-coloured clothing was only outshone by her multi-coloured make-up and hair.

After a refreshing shower for our guests we sat down to a table of fresh ham, tomatoes, onions, avocado, four types of cheeses and, gloriously 'chewy' bread. We toasted ourselves with 'Blanquette de Limoux' and a fine syrah/mouvedre blend from Chateau Donjon. It seemed appropriate to accompany our coffee with a couple of glasses of 'Muscat de St Jean de Minervois'.

Well nourished, we headed down to the Abbey for the first major activity of the annual 'Fete du Marbre' or 'Celebration of Marble' held in Caunes- Minervois. The administrative region we live in is the Aude. The choir, 'Choeur Departemental de L'Aude' is programmed to sing a number of Protestant and Catholic chants in the main church of the Abbey. I was concerned that this might have been a 'bum- numbing' experience. It was in fact an extremely moving and inspirational performance of a 60 person choir singing in an 11th century church. The vibrancy and tone of the music fitted naturally into this ancient building and one could not help feeling that the place had been built just for this purpose...a great experience we all enjoyed.

...And Then There Was Light!

Tue/Wed 16/17 May

Quietly at home with a trip to 'Les Mousquetaires' supermarket for some shopping on Tuesday. DHL rang to advise that a package Julie-Anne sent us from Australia on 27 April would be delivered Wednesday afternoon. I suppose it was restful reading and waiting around all of Wednesday for the delivery to occur...it did not! C'est la vie en France.

Thu 18 May

Donna's appointment with the eye specialist is this afternoon and she is optimistic as she can at last see fairly clearly however the large 'floaters' are disconcerting.

A male voice speaking French on our phone seem to suggest that the DHL man was in Caunes-Minervois but that the roads are too narrow and he can't find our place. I suggest in French (???) that he wait near the school and Donna will go to meet him. In the event, he was on the main street, near the bridge, in a very common, plain white Citroen van. Like most who park illegally here he had his emergency blinkers on. This was the obvious clue he was DHL and Donna worked it out! So much for my French but I still think there is a significant difference between 'ecole' and 'pont'!

Dr Maillard is happy with Donna's eye and the now very small residue of the bleed on her retina will heal completely. The 'floaters' are a different matter but he suggests most people get used to them and they become inconsequential. That's what they say about tinnitus also.

On the way to town we came across today's starting point for the women's bicycle 'Tour de L'Aude" There would have been at least a hundred riders all in their team colours and with an entourage of support vehicles. The organisation to get this going is extraordinary. The village of Villegelly was closed off at both ends as the Municipal Police, Gendarmerie, and officials cover the road. We could just imagine what the male 'Tour de France' must entail. On the stroke of 3pm they took off and the flashing of the wheels and splash of colour certainly creates excitement. People line the route for kilometres simply to get a short glimpse as this colourful, animated monster passes by. (See picture above)

You Call That a Beach?

Mon 15 May

It's time to dip a toe into the Mediterranean so we head off towards the seaside town of Gruissan via the city of Narbonne, a round trip of about 150kms. Regrettably, the weather is very overcast with a promise of drizzle.

Before I get into this, Donna has urged me to make my outpourings easier to read. Reminiscent of Queescliff Paper time! Anyway, I have reviewed back to Hong Kong, made more paragraphs and, double spaced them. She was right, damn! I have also added a few photos and time permitting I will go back and add more.

I had not seen red poppies in a field before and they are now springing up along the sides of the roads and in uncultivated areas. I immediately thought of Flanders and also the poignant use of poppies for remembrance back home...sad.

The price of petrol is a shocker over here. Currently, 98 octane averages 1.40 Euros(2.35AUD) whilst 95 octane is 1.33 Euros (2.23AUD). Gazole or diesel such as our car uses is 1.2 Euros(2.01AUD) per litre.

We once again avoid the toll road and enjoy the 65kms trip to Narbonne on the N113 road, a prettier, less frantic drive. Our initial impression was ho-hum as we approached Narbonne but, after parking and walking to the city centre, we were soon captivated. Narbonne has a population of over 45,000 and, like Carcassonne, has a history going back to the 7th century BC when it may well have served as a harbour and market. In 118BC the Roman Senate decreed it the town of 'Colonia Narbo Martius' and it became a strategic crossroads along the Via Domitia, a section of which was discovered under the town square recently.

Over the centuries it went through the hands of invaders and had its ups and downs until after Charlemagne created the duchy of Gothe with Narbonne as the capital. The Archbishop and the Viscount shared the spoils. From the 14th century, the change in the course of the Aude River, the havoc caused by the Hundred Years War and plague, and the departure of the large Jewish community caused Narbonne to decline. It is now described as a lively Mediterranean city playing an important role as a wine producing centre (Corbieres AOC), and a rail and road junction.

The quite beautiful Canal de Robine runs through the town and in places houses are built over it. The city square is surrounded by shops on three sides and the Palais des Archeveques on the other. The Palais is now a combination of towers originally the Archbishop's Old and New Palaces. Between these towers is a 19th century restoration which we think detracts from the essence of the buildings. Behind all this are administrative departments,a shop, museum, and gallery.

Through an old stone portal you are suddenly in the wonderful 14th century cloister of the Cathedral St Just et St Pasteur. The first stone was laid in April 1272. By 1332, the building activity was postponed as the nave and transcept would have breached a rampart which was deemed essential during those troubled times. No further work was done until the 18th century. What is there of the cathedral is magnificent in its true Gothic style. We will be back to spend more time here.

The sea is about 8kms away and we arrive at Gruissan seeing a lake, lots of boats...and a long straight canal intended to provide access to the sea. The remainder of Gruissan was fairly ordinary and the salt production facilities could not draw us in. One section of the river had significant resort style development of reasonable standard...but where was the beach? We followed the canal to where it joined the Mediterranean but all we could find in terms of beach were scrubby mud flats. The seaside (?) Gruissan Plage was distinctive for its rows of elevated beach houses raised up on stilts. I really don't know who would have a holiday there.

I think if we had driven further west along the coast to Narbonne Plage we might have found better beaches. I will let you know after our next visit.

Carcassonne-La Cite

Sat 13 May

The weather is overcast and drizzly this morning and we are in two minds as to what to do. When in doubt, go for a drive. We find ourselves not far from home on flattish country west of
C-M. We are surrounded by vineyards and I must say it is very pleasant. A sign to Carcassonne seals the deal and we head off for the largest walled-city in Europe. There is a legend that asserts that the wife of a Muslim ruler in the Middle Ages, Carcus, threw a force fed pig over the battlements when the city was under siege by Emperor Charlemagne. The pig split open and the troops below despaired at the thought the castle had so much food it could feed pigs like so. Consequently, the siege was lifted and the troops retreated. Bells pealed out in celebration and the people cried "Carcas, sonne!" (Ring,Carcas!")

C'mon Phillip, what Muslims would have pigs? Ed.

Just so. That's why it is a legend! More acceptable is that the name has local language roots: carac, for 'rock' (after the spur on which it is built), and sonne, for "wood" (for the forests which surrounded it). A lot less romantic isn't it?

From our earlier posts you would have deduced that Carcassonne is a modern town with all the commercial, retail, medical,and other services that you could want. Obviously, this all grew from something and that something was a settlement as far back as between the 8th and 6th centuries BC. An oppidum (hill fort) was established on the plateau overlooking the Aude river. There is evidence to suggest that the entity probably played a role as a trading centre between local goods and products from the Mediterranean world. Oppidums were being built on similar summits as a means of protection but also to survey passing foreign merchants.

A Roman consul traveled the Languedoc and Provence regions by elephant in 122BC as a conqueror. Rome's authority was accepted as it enhanced trade with Italy.... particularly in wine.

As a point of interest, Hannibal also used elephants in this area.

Over the centuries, Carcassonne passed through the hands of Romans and Visigoths and developed its defences. Its golden age began in 1082 under the Trencavel family. In association with the Count from Toulouse , Trencavel became very powerful in the area controlling knights and other noblemen. His vassals built against the Gallo-Roman walls of his castle thus expanding the city which eventually ended up with a 'suburbia' of 16 boroughs.

The Cathars sect drew their inspiration from the Gospels but their view of man's relationship with God, which was spiritual, and their relationship with the material world, which was Satanic in origin, clearly differed from the Pope and his clergy. The Catholic clergy resisted paying their taxes and were disliked by the feudal lords. Thus the lords supported the Cathars.

The Cathars led an ascetic life, seeking to rid themselves of their mortal coil, asserting that all souls were good and that all souls would be saved. They preached a form of Christianity that was very different from the Catholic Church's teaching. This 'heresy' threatened the established Church and the pope, Innocent III, summoned a crusade against the Cathars and their supporters. This of course included the young Trencavel even though he was a Catholic. Sourcing crusaders was not difficult as the opportunity for plunder and acquisition of land, and a promise by the Pope of a passport to Paradise drove prospective recruits. Sounds a bit like the Muslims of today...nothing changes really.

The 'Albigensian Crusade' began with a siege at Carcassonne in August 1209. Trencavel surrended to the crusaders thus saving the lives of the population who fled to Toulouse and to as far away as Spain.

The city, its wealth and the Trencavel's land was handed over to Simon de Montfort, an unscrupulous lord who continued the crusade against the Cathars until his death in 1218. Each day here, Donna and I witness sights and read the history of this cruel and violent period. This history is well remembered.

In 1226 the Cathars were recovering. Raymond VII de Touslouse and Trencavel were ex-communicated from the church by the Pope. A new crusade began led by King Louis VIII. The people of Carcassonne along with other major centres, were tired of war and capitulated peacefully to the King.

The fortress was enhanced at this time by an outside circling the inner fortifications. We walked between these two walls on the area called 'the bailey' which averages about 25 mtrs wide and circles some 1.5 kms.

In 1240 a rebellion against the King's authority in Carcassonne was led by Trencavel.... it failed and the rebels fled. Trencavel died in 1247 at the time that the now King Louis IX forgave the inhabitants and authorised their return. Unfortunately their houses had been destroyed and they settled on the bank of the river where the modern city of Carcassonne grew and is now overlooked by the restored La Cite.

I hope historians will forgive any transgressions of fact and I realise I have ended the story abruptly although there were significant historical events that occurred in the meantime e.g. The One Hundred Years War. My sources have been pamphlets and guide books however, I think you should get the general picture.

As you approach the city today it looks a bit like Disneyland. In its well restored environs shops and restaurants compete with the 'riverains' or local population. We look forward to a more in depth visit next week with Graham and Barbara C.

Donna and I had lunch in the city and we took the 12 euro option. I selected 'cassoulet' while Donna had lasagne. Our first course, of course, was French onion soup. We had a half litre pichet of red 'vin de pays' which cost 4 euros.

One of the great experiences in the local cuisine is cassoulet. It has its origins in the 100 Years War when the besieged French in Castelaudry created a mixture of beans and meat which saw them outlast the British. It is a simple but tasty baked dish of white haricot beans and garlic cooked with bits of sausage and either beef, pork or lamb meat. In the one I had there was a drumstick of duck in it.... yummy!

Sun 14 May

At home. Great to talk with Mum for Mothers Day. Both Julie-Anne and Phillip called on Skype to speak with Donna.

Saint Nicholas?

Fri 12 May.

Superimposing the Wanadoo browser over the existing Bigpond, has created anomolies in the day-to-day operation of the computer. Certain programs no longer work and the machine infuriatingly closes down with no notice, resulting in the loss of whatever I am working on...the 'blog' for example. An Australian working in web-site design has referred me to '@ Computers', a business with technical expertise in downtown Carcassone. Our car is going to know its own way into Carcassone I'm sure! Our contact is to be an English speaking Nicholas. Nicholas is the quintessential computer expert...young and hyperactive. His English is beautiful without the slightest hint of accent. His father was French and his mother English. In around 20 minutes he completely re-organised my computer and for all intents and purposes it appears as Bigpond but operated through Wanadoo..clever really. He really is a Saint.

We spoke with Donna's cousin Judy in Newcastle by way of Skype this morning. Donna got a real buzz out of this and I think it helped a lot in taking her mind off her eye which she is still adjusting too.

Donna put her mind to using the wonderful cast iron pots in the kitchen and came up with a delicious 'daube'. A daube is a 'ragout' (stew) of meat braised in stock and a wine marinade and it takes its name from 'daubiere' -- a tall, fat-bellied earthenware casserole with a concave lid. The secret is to keep the temperature as low as possible so as to cook it over a long period of time. The concave lid was used to put cold water into to assist this process. Our pots are OK as they are heavy and the lids are tight fitting and do not allow evaporation which is important for a tender result. We also cook with gas which gives good heat control. Donna used beef for the meat and the marinade was a Bourdeau red. The vegetables for the sauce can be pureed to thicken it. We ate it accompanied by a syrah/grenache blend red from the Minervois appellation....how good is that?

A Hole Inside a Mountain?

Thu 11 May.

More about the hole later.

I have just finished reading a book by Peter Mayle (of 'A Year in Provence' fame) called 'Chasing Cezanne'. His experiences in France have spawned a number of novels and he certainly has an eye for the sometimes curious behaviour and foibles of the French. A gem that amused me related to what we see as the state of constant animation of many French people."" Lucy was looking puzzled as she tried to pick out a familiar sound from the torrent of noise. " Do they always talk so fast?" " Always. The Frenchman, until advanced senility sets in, is normally excited." " What happens when advanced senility sets in?" " Oh, they go on chasing girls. But slowly, so they don't spill their drinks." ""

Donna feels that her eye is still improving however, the black spot in her vision persists.

We decide to drive up and around the Montagne Noir and circle back to C-M, a trip of around 60kms.The road is very narrow and initially winds its way along the Argent-Double River. This river (more like a stream) is clear as crystal and tumbles along its bed of white rocks, seemingly never getting deeper than 50cms. We notice the vegetation is scrubby on the mountainside at this point. After about 6km we reach Citou where there doesn't appear to be a wine vine in sight. Well defined vegetable gardens and orchards take up any of the available arable ground and you notice that the air is slightly chillier. Citou is known for its garden produce and particularly for its sought after onions which are stored in the fields rather than freezers.

The road becomes steep and winding at this point and it is wonderful to see the village of Lespinassiere, pictured above, tucked into the folds of the ridgeline of an isolated peak with its 15th century church's square tower emerging from the more verdant foliage than that just a few kilometres before.

The road becomes even steeper and Donna has become a 'white-knuckle' passenger as she fears a 'head-on' from any approaching traffic. You would think that anyone who lived here would never be in a rush. I agree with Mayle that a Frenchman behind the wheel has a competitive urgency that overwhelms all their other instincts!The bush has taken on a lush appearance with a variety of tall trees and ferns. Not nearly as colourful though as the brightly dressed pushbike riders who dot the road in some sought of masochistic ritual of riding up incredibly steep mountains. We are 900 metres above sea level.

We pass the village of Castans which hangs like a limpet on the side of the mountain and which must be able to boast the narrowest roads around.

Downhill now to Cabrespine which seems to enlarge as we drop onto it in its valley. A drawcard here is the 'Gouffre de Cabrespine'. This is the hole in the mountain. Some call it an abyss whilst others a chasm. In any event, you enter onto a balconied walkway which skirts an enormous hole 250 metres deep and 70 metres wide. To put it in context, the Eiffel Tower would fit inside it! This massive cave has been cut by a river running through the mountain whose bed was originally at the level we view from. The surrounding walls are covered in concretions which have been formed by calcite flows (?) coloured by various oxides. Stalactites and stalagmites can be seen close-up and the lighting is marvelous. The hole was discovered late last century and was explored from the bottom up. You have just got to admire the people who climbed the massive, vertical wall with only the lamp on their helmet for vision...hard to believe.

As we left the cave I noticed a girl of about 25 wearing a Wallabies jumper and a leather 'Crocodile Dundee' hat. What a surprise to find that she was in fact French and had spent 7 months living on the Gold Coast!

As we head back to C-M I notice that our fuel is down to about 1/8 full. We find a garage at Villegly that sells diesel and fill up realising that we have covered just on 900kms on 7/8 of a tank. Our Citroen Picasso is very economical to run. The tank took 52 litres at 1.21 Euro (2.017 AUD) per litre.

Donna had noticed a Chateau in a park in Villegly so we drove in as we found it was a public facility. The building with its pointy turrets was 3 storeys high and in excellent condition. The setting in a beautiful park bordered by a stream and a centrepiece of a Roman bridge was stunning. We went into the building which I think is used for meetings and conferences. We were stopped by an official and had a wonderful conversation in French over about 6 or 7 minutes. He went away happy. We wish we had known what we were talking about... C'est la vie!

The Story Continues

Fri 5 May

Donna's eye is no better and I think the inability to see is becoming quite stressful. As the weather is pleasant, a relaxing drive seems in order and we choose Beziers which is about 70 kms due East. A drive anywhere in this Languedoc region offers hectare upon hectare of vineyards punctuated by aged, stone villages with all the rustic romance and beauty you see in picture books. As Spring has well and truly sprung the vines and trees are all showing fresh green foliage. In a week or two we won't recognise the place.

Castagnet is larger than most, but like all of the villages, is landmarked by a church steeple or belltower. Neat and tidy, the narrow streets inevitably lead towards the town square. The church, St Etienne, is an exceptional one first constructed by the Romans at the end of the 11th century. Major reconstruction occurred in the 13th century and again in the 14th century. The roofline is 25 mtrs high and the belltower 45 metres. A poignant memorial to an incident in 9 June 1944 is situated at its base where 179 men, between 18 and 40 years old, were assembled and carted off by the Germans.Previously, on the 6th and 7th, 23 patriots and resistance people were tortured and killed.

Just before Beziers is the 'Oppidum d'Enserune'. This pre-Roman hill fort stands 120 mtrs above the Bezier plain. Enserune was a settlement from the 6th century BC until the Christian era began and the 'Pax Romana' enabled people to safely live on the plains in the 1st century AD. The archeologists have done a good job and the remains of the buildings are very easy to make out. The on-site museum contains Iberian, Greek, Roman and of course French artifacts. Interestingly, what appear to be circular wells all over the site are in fact grain storage vats which were ingeniously sealed to preserve the food.

At the base of the hill, and to the north, is an extraordinary rural landscape of a vast circle with the plots of land radiating out from the centre like a giant pie graph.(Pictured above) The old Montady Lake was drained in 1247. The plots radiate out from the centre because of the channels that drain water off into a collector. From there, an aqueduct passes under the hill and takes the water to the floor of the old Capestang lake.

The traffic in Beziers is intimidating and parking is ridiculously difficult. It has a population of 78,000 and a violent and gruesome history particularly during the Catholic Crusades against the Cathars in 1209. (This blog will discuss the Cathars later.) This was the site where every living creature was slaughtered and the Catholic Bishop famously answered a knight's question as to how they might distiguish the Catholics from the Cathars with "Kill them all. God will recognise his own".

The Cathedral Saint Nazaire is a beautiful Romanseque building sitting high on a terrace and dominating the view of the town as you approach. After 1209 repairs were carried out between 1215 till the 1600s. The church; the cloisters; the Bishop's garden and the view over the river Orb spanned by three stone bridges are all superb. The Spanish influence in the city is very obvious with not the least being a substantial bull fighting arena. Rugby is a passion.

Sat 6 May

Donna's eye continues to worry her. We can do nothing but wait at this stage. All the advice we are getting here and from Australia is to the effect that the medicos are well trained and up to date. We have only been impressed by what we have seen so far.

The Saturday morning market has been highly recommended to us so it's back to Carcassone for the experience. We arrive at 0900hrs and find that the Square where we had lunch just a few days ago is teeming with people and food and produce stalls. The quality is high and the prices cheap compared to Australia. Donna could not resist the invitation to try some cheese from an enthusiastic vendor who seemed to stock an endless array of local and exotic cheese. We ended up buying half a kilo of a cheese made from sheep milk and, so we were told, very exclusive...at 45 Euros a kilo it would want to have been! He went to great lengths to advise us to store it in cotton for three months to get it to its best. I can't imagine us keeping it that long as the taste now is beautiful.
We were caught a bit short at the market because one of the necessities is a large, soft, woven cane shopping basket with leather handles. We found a more stylish one in a nearby shop and paid 14 Euros for it. As we left the shop we found a smaller roadside shop selling the real McCoy for 6 Euros! The retailers must love us here!

For some time we have seen flyers promoting 'C'est le printemps du Minervois" which is a range of wine related activities by individual chateaux and wine collectives. This is another long weekend,this one celebrating VE Day, and the activities run across the three days. The village of Villegly is on our way back home and a group of chateaux are conducting a 'degustation' and other activities with music and food. We must all learn to live like these very earthy people! We tasted wines and ended up buying a couple of bottles from each domaine or chateau. The language was again a bit of a problem until we heard a couple of visitors speaking English. Ray and Chris come from Jersey and have settled in Castans which is up in the mountains from us. They are our age and Chris lived in Australia for some years in the 60s and 70s. They have left behind what they say is a very expensive and money-centred society in Jersey for the cheaper, more tranquil lifestyle of Southern France. We will be visiting them next week. We have made good contacts with the Chateau du Donjon and the Domaine Les Maillols whose wine is excellent and who try as hard to speak English as we do French.

Sun 7 May.

At Home

Mon 8 May.

Donna's eye is becoming frustrating as the promised improvement is not apparent. We have both finished our current books so another drive seems in order and we head for Minerve about 40kms to the East. Regrettably the weather is drizzly and overcast however, this offers a view of the countryside we will not see too often.

Minerve, pictured above, is an outstanding place to see as you approach it. The village occupies a site on a promotory overlooking arid countryside and rugged gorges. On the face of it, it is a well sited defensive position. In 1210 Simon de Montfort, leading 7000 Catholic crusaders, laid siege to the place which capitulated after 5 weeks when their water supplies ran out. The Cathar inhabitants were given the choice of converting to Catholicism or being slaughtered. The higher ranked Cathars or 'Parfaits' refused and 180 of them were burned at the stake.

The village seems to hang off the side of the steep cliffs. It is difficult to walk along some of the steep roads. Our 'Green Guide' book suggested that the 'Relais Chantovent' was a suitable restaurant so there we ventured. What an amazing lunch! Donna took the 19 Euro option whilst I naturally went the whole hog on the 35 Euro effort. My entree was pate fois de gras with mashed figs and cinnamon followed by beef medallions with truffles. Donna started with marinated vegetables and goats cheese followed by a fish offering of spiced gurnard with mussels. Following a modest cheese plate, I had a nougat based dessert while Donna attacked a beautifully prepared chocolate sauce covered pudding. We drank 'Badoit' water, and OK..a very fine Chateau Gouzagard red. The drive home was painless.

Tue 9 May.

At home. The internet is connected. I start updating. Donna feels that the veil across her eye is lifting however, the centre of her vision is still difficult.

Wed 10 May.

Sometimes I think that the effort of maintaining this blog is too much. I have taken time out to read what we did in Hong Kong and indeed, sneeked a peak back to England last year. The re-living of those memories is vivid and provides the motivation to plough-on. Who would ever want to forget those tango dancers in Hong Kong?

Donna is very happy with the improvement in her eye. The veil has almost lifted but the black shape in her vision persists.

A shopping trip to Le Clerc was necessary this afternoon and on the way back we visited the Domaine les Maillols whose wine we had tasted last Saturday. I had been particularly impressed with his 'vin de pays' Sauvignon Blanc. Christophe and Annabelle operate the place and this is their first vintage. They are young and obviously have committed themselves to an expensive operation. We tasted some red he has brewing and we have made arrangements to take our Australian visitors there when they arrive.

This is really a great life!

The World's a Better Place

Wanadoo came good and the connection came on line today. We can now continue with the update.

Tue 25 Apr.

As we got up this morning we thought of ANZAC Day and the activities in Australia. We also realized that we are 8 hours behind in time. Our decision not to drive on the main auto-way to Caunes-Minervois but on the secondary, more rural route was a good one. It gave me time to adjust to the "wrong" side of the road and also to get a feel for the villages and country-side in a more gentle way. I might add that the investment in our "Tom Tom" GPS car navigating system was a good one and is paying brilliant returns. A must for driving on overseas trips.
We met our landlady, Ingrid, who introduced us to the house.

Set in the mediaeval heart of the village the environs are quite beautiful. It has taken a great deal of work to bring this 3 storey, 500 year old house up to a livable standard. It feels old and certainly looks old but we wouldn't have it any other way. Our street allows me to touch the house on either side with my arms outstretched! The cobbles, stone walls, shutters, tiles and flowers create a wonderful ambiance.

Our big mistake has been not to bring more Australian power plug adaptors. Going up and down stairs to change the one adaptor we have is the pits!

We have to park the car in the courtyard of the Abbey which means a 200 metre or so trip to the car...no real hardship as you get to say "bonjour" to our neighbours quite a lot. Had a bath tonight in the very deep, pink, claw-foot bath...bliss!

Wed 26 Apr.

A drive 30 kms to Carcassone this morning. I must have crushed my hearing aid in my pocket while lugging our bags, No repairs here so I need to send it back to Australia. Made the arrangements for a Mobile number and Internet connection. Had lunch in the main city square and met a couple of Brit expats who lived in India before moving here.Their names are Alan and Sandra and they seem keen for us to catch up. They live in Arques which is the other side of Carcassone to us however, distances are not great here. They have strongly recommended 'Blanquette de Limoux' which is a sparkling white 'invented' some 500 years before champagne...I'll report on the results.

Thu 27 Apr.

Back to Carcassonne again for the large 'Le Clerc' supermarket. A bit like Target with food and everything from clothes, electrical, wine and food in stock. The produce such as meat, fish and so on is of extremely high quality. Regrettably, very little English is spoken so the phrase book is getting a good workout. You have to pack your own bag at the checkout and, if you want a trolley, you pay one euro to release it and then get the euro back when you return it. Controls the trolleys very well.

We had our first good look at the 'Canal du Midi" as it passes through Carcassone on it's way from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic. This beautiful tree-lined canal was built over a 14 year period by 15,000 workers and was begun in 1667. This initial engineering wonder ran 240 kms from Sete on the Mediterranean to Toulouse and was the brainchild of Pierre-Paul Riquet who went broke financing the project. The canal was extended to the Atlantic in the 1800's. Cruising is very popular and it is an entertainment in its own right watching the boats go through the locks.

Fri 28 Apr.

Very windy today which seems to be part and parcel of the weather system here. The 'mistral' blows from the north at speeds up to 180 kmh and can drop the temperature 20 degrees in no time. These blow more into Provence than here thank God. At least we now know why the brand name for fans in Australia is 'Mistral'! So far we have identified three major 'wind power' sites with their massive propellers slowly turning and generating electricity. I just can't see how these things could threaten birds as the opponents to them in Australia make out.

Our first visit to the post office today which again proved a linguistic challenge. One also needs to adjust to the extended lunch-breaks here. Most businesses and services open at 0800 hrs and close up for perhaps 2, 3 or sometimes 4 hours for lunch, before opening until 1900 hrs. Generally, if you make a restaurant reservation for dinner, think 2030 hrs rather than any earlier.

Caunes-Minervois (C-M) has been producing marble since Roman times and we visited the quarries today. The marble is predominately red or pink with white and grey through it. It is widely used for decoration in churches and local buildings and is found in columns in the castle at Versailles and other major Paris buildings. A local sculptor demonstrated his work to us in his studio and I think a small piece may well find a home in Australia.

Donna used one of the old iron pots in the kitchen to do lamb shanks for dinner. No doubt the best I've ever had and washed down with a local Grenache/Syrah blend.

Sat/Sun 29/30 Apr

Relatively quiet couple of days. We have done a deal with the landlady and bought a DVD player which we will leave here. There is no English TV or radio, so to watch DVDs in English and with captions is a God-send.

Another stroll around C-M revealed much interesting Romanesque and Renaissance architecture and also the public 'washing facility' which is fed by a source of pure underground water. Quite drinkable. Donna had a short tour of the Abbey after which we had a local pizza and a 'demi-pichet' of rose wine. The local 'vin de pays' is extremely good quality and inexpensive with a litre costing around 2.5 euros.

Mon 1 May

It's the Mayday holiday so we decide to drive to the village of La Laviniere about 18 kms away. They are having a 'Fete de Fleurs' which is not much more than a smallish flower and plant market in the church grounds. We noticed a poster for an activity in Azille, a village a little further on, and headed off. The 3 day celebration had as its centrepiece a 'Feria' which seems to include all things Spanish including bulls. An arena has been built and here men, dressed in white, attempt to remove decorations from the horns of very angry bulls prompted into action by 'picador' types on white Andalusian horses. Afterwards, everyone adjourned to the village centre where the horses charged up and down the main street in what is called a 'bravida'. All this to loud Spanish music and not the least, wonderfully colourful dancers with flashing eyes and movements. Wine was flowing and the atmosphere was festive.

We visited Homps on the way home which is a village on the canal (everywhere you go you seem to find the canal!). A restaurant had this marvelous courtyard where we washed down our lunch in the Spring sunshine with the fabled Blanquette de Limoux which was every bit as nice as our British friends promised. During lunch Donna complained of cloudiness and difficulty of seeing out of her left eye.

Tue 2 May

Donna's eye is no better but she decides to give it one more day. We drive north into the 'Montagne Noir' whose modest but rugged peaks overlook C-M. The 'Grotte de Limousis' is a cave complex set in arid, bare limestone country where only vines and olive trees could grow. It was 'discovered' in 1811 but there is clear evidence pre-historic people used it. The cave stretches for 660 metres and in the final chamber is an enormous chandelier formation of white aragonite crystals some 10 metres in circumference....magnificent.

On now to Lastours, pictured above, which features 4 castles perched on the summit of a mountain ridge. It is difficult walk up to the ruins so we opt for the view from neighbouring Belevedere ridge. A stunning view and we will be back to see the castles lit up at night.

Wed 3 May

Off to Carcassonne to get an optometrist to look into Donna's eye. Unlike Australia, there are only opticians here who only make and fit glasses so we were referred to the 'polyclinique'. After some confusion the Doctor here suggested we find our way to the 'service urgence' at the Gayaurd hospital. Thank God again for the Tom Tom! No English at the admission centre however, eventually we were taken to an emergency examination room. The attending doctor spoke very broken English and after Donna went to great lengths to describe here eye condition he indicated she should take her clothes off! "Your kidding" she said, but he was serious. I think their thoughts at that stage were along the lines of a stroke. Blood was taken; a drip inserted; and an ECG performed.

I rang Sonja, an optometrist friend in Sydney, who confirmed our thoughts that it might be a detached retina. Some three hours later I got this message across to a middle-aged, pony-tailed doctor who said 'maybe". We were then directed to a specialist in downtown Carcassonne (thanks again Tom Tom) and after a wait he diagnosed a breakdown of the vitreous (jelly) in the eyeball which had ruptured a blood vessel at the back of her eye... better than a detachment. However, he thinks up to 10 days for the blood to be absorbed and the eye to settle. Overall a bad day but the French were all very professional and helpful. The big surprise: hospital - 20 euros; specialist - 35 euros! Healing appears more important here than individuals becoming rich.

Thu 4 May

Rest a home.

Zo Zoree M,sieu

As you can see by the date above, it is two weeks since this Blog has been updated. I am thankful to the staff of the Abbey for allowing me the time on their computer. We applied for our mobile phone and internet connection on 26 Apr. The phone was organised immediately. The internet through France Telecom has been a different matter."About a week" they said. We went into Carcassone yesterday, 6 May, to be greeted by a Gallic shrug and upturned palms " I am zoree M,sieu, per'aps een one weeek....eet eez ze technician you zee". Well, we shall have to just wait and see. To catch up a little then:

Sun 23 Apr.

An early morning start to find our way to the YMCA in downtown Hong Kong to begin our 'Land Between' tour. The New Territories lie between the Kowloon Hills and the boundary with mainland China. Over a centruy ago, this area was entirely rural. It still has a rural look and beauty about it yet it is an enormously diverse suburbia full of contrasts blending traditional customs and modern ideas. Our first stop was the Yuen Yuen Institute which is a very large complex of temples representing Confucian, Taoist, and Buddhist contributions to society. A lot of worship and incense burning was going on but to us, the most dramatic was the main temple where the three statues sit side by side. If only Western religions could worship side by side, even within the one religion, the world would be a better place. On now to Tai Mo Shan, Hong Kong's highest mountain which, we are assured, provides great views of the city. It was very misty however, the real excitement was a wedding party with the bride in a traditional red outfit. As we came down from the mountain we passed the old British barracks now manned by the very soldierly looking Red Army military. We visited the 'Fanling Walled Village'. It was an extremely overcrowded affair with streets (?) less than a metre wide. Surprisingly, most of the tenants cars parked outside were Meredes, Volvos, Lexus etc. Were we missing something here? Ancestor worship is practised here and complete houses are set aside as ancestral halls. A little further on we saw the boundary town of Shau Tau Kok on the Chinese mainland. Over the mountains and on our way back we saw the Bride's Pool Falls and the Sam Mun Tsai fish farming zone where the farmers live on the boats under which the fish breed in cages. This very worthwhile tour culminated with an excellent banquet in a restaurant overlooking the racecourse.

Before we leave Hong Kong I have to say I was too harsh on our accomodation. The staff were first class, the food good and the room was clean. At the price we paid we got a good deal. Better, I think than the many thousands of Chinese who live on an average wage of $11,000 HKD per month and whose extended families share heavily subsidised one room government apartments of around 15 sq mtrs. With no social security system, life for many in this ostensibly prosperous city is demanding.

We hoped that our British Airways flight to Heathrow would provide better than the Qantas effort from Australia. It was worse! The drama of getting my earphone adaptor proved unnessary as BA planes have a single plug connection... grrr. After 12 hours flying we arrived in England.

Mon 24 Apr.

No airport at 0540 looks good but to be honest, the efficiency with baggage collection, immigration and customs was excellent, as it was also at Hong Kong. No long waits anywhere. We caught a bus to Gatwick and spent 9 hours in the BA equivalent of the Qantas Club before our BA flight to Toulouse where we arrived at 1600. The pick up of our brand new Citroen Picasso was uneventful and overnight at the very comfortable Sofitel Toulouse was very welcome.