I Just 'Lerve' Minerve

Fri 30 Jun

Minerve is about 20 kms from Caunes so, after a fairly relaxed morning, we set off to arrive there around mid-day. One approach to the town provides a panoramic view and in the hot, clear weather the first glimpse of Minerve, sitting upon its massive rock in the middle of a complex river system, is breathtaking. The vineyards in this 'terroir' are very stony and it is quite something to see the very healthy vines emerging from a base of white stones. Before reaching Minerve we took a slight detour into the village of La Caudette which hangs from a sheer rock face and appears suspended above the river. Some houses in the village seem to be nothing more than caves with brickwork as decoration!

Minerve excites because of its geographical position with deep ravines surrounding it. It held out well against the Albigensian Crusaders however, technology in the form of large catapaults capable of hurling large rocks across the gaps, soon saw it capitulate. Resident Cathars, rather than denouncing their beliefs, threw themselves onto the burning pyers. Their spirit is remembered in a poignant sculpture, set adjacent to the Church, and depicting a bird in flight.

Before touring the town we had lunch at the Chantovent restaurant where Jeff had his first taste of truffles. I think he was underwhelmed by the experience.

After lunch we took a back path down into the gorge which circumvents the village. We discovered ancient houses and caves which had terrifying creatures looking out of them to scare invaders away. A replica of the wooden catapault shows simplicity of design and an efficiency in its operation. The river flowing around the foundation of the village is dry at present and we were able to follow its course underground through massive caves.

On the way home we stopped off at Rieux-Minervois to visit the very unique and uncanny medieval monuments in France...the seven-sided church......which I recently described in this blog.

Hard Yakka

Thu 29 Jun

Much anticipation today as we head off over the top of the Montagne Noire to Cabrespine and to the 'piece-de-resistance', Lastours.

On the way up the mountain we explored the Argent Double river as it bounced down towards Caunes Minervois past Citou, the famous orchard and vegetable area. All were impressed with the 12th century town of Lespinessiere as we ascended towards the Pic de Noire (peak) at nearly 900 metres above sea level. Down now to Castans where none of us could come up with a decent reason for its existence and on to Cabrespine with its 'geant gouffre'...the fabulous 'hole in the mountain'. Much enjoyed by all.

On now towards the fantastic castles at Lastours where I had promised an enjoyable lunch at a very pretty 'boulangerie'. Situated on a stream running through the village, Graham, Barbara, Shane and Lynnelle had all agreed that this was an exquisite spot for lunch. Alas, it was closed...it was Wednesday, silly me I should have known! There was however, much excitement as the adjacent Post Office (La Poste) had been broken in to and robbed. Consequently, five Gendarmerie vehicles were on site with much activity and large weapons on their waists. We walked on to the information centre for the castles and found a suitable looking cafe. Karen was not really impressed by the attitude of 'mine host' but his food was, as usual in these places, first class. My Confit de Canard was great but Jeff took the honours with 'gezieres' or as we know them, 'duck's guts'! Karen took a photo of the chef so all is well that ends well.

I was not really keen to climb the mountain and to walk over the ruins but there was a challenge...!

The four castles are situated at the summit of a mountain ridge, 300 metres above sea level. I have pictured them on a blog a couple of weeks ago. Gold and copper was extracted from the surrounding area in Roman times. Up to the Crusades against the Cathars, three castles existed with the earliest dating back to around the 9th century. The fourth castle, Tour Regine, was built after the Crusades.

We climbed the mountain and climbed the ruins. Fascinating stuff but really hard yakka in the 35 degree temperature. We were able to take some really great photos however, they cannot do justice to the real thing. After the climb, we drove to an adjacent view point to really appreciate where we had been. Working gold mines still operate in the area. An interesting note is that the Information Centre was a former textile factory at the start of last century and produced military uniforms.

Donna had invited an Australian couple, Warren and Elaine, whom we had met in Caunes for dinner. We had a great BBQ and Donna's special spaghetti. Pity the neighbour felt moved to stick his head over the fence at 10 PM in great indignation and demanded we be quite. Typical arrogant approach which got little sympathy from us as we have been quite exemplary since we arrived. He would not know how to be diplomatic about such a matter so I was not inclined to bow to his demand!

"We'll just let them settle in quietly..."

Mon 26 Jun

Caunes Minervois

Tue 27 Jun

Jeff, Karen, Christopher and Anthony arrived at Carcassonne airport this evening accompanied by the long-awaited thunderstorm which struck as the aircraft's wheels hit the ground. Is this a portent of things to come?

Regrettably, the storm was short-lived but enough to clean the streets of the usual dog excrement and the millions of cigarette butts. There seems to be some sort of 'death-wish' over here considering the vast numbers of smokers! They don't care where they blow their smoke either...just another of their quite extraordinary behaviours that we at home nowadays would raise an eyebrow at. Not the least of these also is urinating in public. Cars are frequently seen pulled up on the side of the road with Dad and his son happily 'pissing into the breeze'. As photographed here outside the local bar, and kindly demonstrated by 'you know who', some sense of decorum has been sought with the 'urinoir' somewhat out of sight but sadly, the effluent flowing directly into the beautiful Argent Double river running through town!

Donna put together a glorified 'holy trinity' for dinner which left our guests glowing as they settled-in downstairs for their first night in a mediaeval house in France.

Wed 28 Jun

We thought a restful introduction into the relaxed and rustic Languedoc lifestyle might have been warranted however, after baguettes, cereal, cheese, fruit and coffee we were off. First up was the steep walk up from the 'Chapel of Notre Dame du Cros' to the marble quarries. Caunes still works three quarries of red marble of different shades: pale rose, old rose, and blood red. The remains of the 'Carriere du Roi' or King's Quarry give some indication of the manhandling of the stone centuries ago. We pushed further up the ridge and found the remains of stone walls that were part of a defensive position on the plateau and are reputedly between 2,700 and 2,800 years old. Apparently, a devastating fire destroyed all the buildings and turned the marble into chalk (?)!

The scenery from the top of the plateau is superb with a 360 degree view of the surrounding country to as far away as the Pyrenees. The area is seemingly covered with the now verdant grape vines.

On the way back we noticed that the church was open as a Mass had just been celebrated (for two women!). The Chapel dates back to 900AD and has been through a number of additions and renovations. As you would expect, it is extensively decorated with marble and the furnishings and paintings are beautiful.

Every year on 8th September (the date of the nativity for the Virgin) the faithful make a traditional pilgrimage to the Chapel. Nearby, water bubbles from a spring which is said to have healing powers and can alleviate fevers. Above, statues of the Virgin, St Joseph, and St John have been erected. We also followed the 'Stations of the Cross' which have been built into the hillside in their individual grottos.

Finally, the Chapel is situated at the mouth of a pass which has high rocky walls which are ideal for rock climbing. Christopher and Anthony gave the walls a work-out and we noticed school children being kitted out for a climbing lesson.

Since being in France we have noticed many groups of French school kids on excursions with their teachers. Reminded me of the books and films about 'Madeline' which entertain our grand-daughter.

I had rung Caroline at Chateau Donjon and Christophe from Domaine Les Malliols and warned them out about a visit. In their very different operations (Donjon-500 years and Malliols-18 months) they received us wonderfully and ensured our guests left with a good understanding of their products. Christophe has just had notification that two of his styles have met 'appellation' standard. He is ecstatic and Donna and I have been invited to a party to celebrate with him and Annabelle next Friday.

Dinner tonight is at the Hotel D'Alibert with the marvelous host, Frederic. During the afternoon we had discussed Christopher Hopes's book and his observation of the barely disguised Frederic as 'Nicholas'. It set a wonderful meal off to watch Frederic and to identify his eccentricities and mannerisms so well described in the book. The two boys enjoyed their Guinea Fowl whilst Jeff did justice to an entree of squid followed by Daube and Karen got on the right side of a Canard a l'Orange.

Not a bad day's work for a 'rest-day'! Can we maintain the pace?

A Warm Weekend

Oops! I was reading back through the blogs and noticed that I had completely screwed up on my explanation of Territorial and Local Government administration in France. It's now corrected so if you really want to know, go back to the blog dated 19 Jun 'Lecon Geographique..'.

Sat 24 Jun

The weather is really starting to warm up now and it would be very easy to find a shady spot, pour a 'pastis', and read a book. We decide however, to drive to Carcassonne for the market then on to Minerve and Homps to make some reservations for our outings with the visitors from Gladstone who arrive on Tuesday evening.

The markets really are an event for many cities and towns where locals can purchase smallgoods, meat, cheese, produce, flowers, clothing,leathergoods,jewellery, and so on from local producers and craftsmen. The Carcassonne Saturday market would rank amongst the bigger in the area. The centre square is dedicated to fruit and vegetables, flowers, cheese, and smallgoods which include sausages of all types, rabbits, chicken, and every offensive piece of offal known to man!

In a large adjacent building, the area is set aside for meat (including beef, lamb, goat and horse!), fish, shellfish, and cheese.

Somewhat further away and lining both sides of a major corridor through town is the general market. Here it seems everything is available from leather lounge suites (600 Euros),to clothing, shoes, kitchenware, electrical goods, toys, carpets, and, as I said, you name it you can probably buy it here.

Apart from all, the markets being extremely busy the other notable observation is the ethnic mix. Almost without exception, the food markets are run by French caucasians. The general markets, again almost without exception, are manned and run by the Muslim ethnicity. The prices are pretty good and, as an example, I was able to buy four Bonds type 'T' shirts for 6 Euros the lot!

After a 20 km drive to Minerve and a visit to the Chantovent Restaurant (they remembered us as we walked in!) to make our reservation, it was off across some roads we had not been on before to Homps. Our plan was simply to make a booking for the trip up the Canal du Midi, book a table in the courtyard restaurant and head home. Well, after a lovely lunch of Trout Meniere for Donna and grilled salmon for me and finishing with sorbet for Donna and 'Ile Flotant' for me, we drove slowly home enjoying the aftertaste of an extremely good Rose. I just knew you would ask! 'Ile Flotant' is meringue, covered in cream and caramel, floating in a dish of custard.

Dinner was not a high priority after such a lunch so we settled in to watch the first couple of episodes of 'The Sopranos'. How could it be that we have not watched this before? Our friend Michael, proudly of Italian extract, used to rave about it and we now know for good reason. Brilliant!

Sun 25 Jun

It is humid and with rolls of thunder in the sky and a few large raindrops we eagerly awaited the storm. It didn't come. Perhaps the weather Gods are closed on Sundays! House cleaning is on the agenda.

The Best Of It. The Worst Of It.

Thu/Fri 22/23 Jun

Although a little weary from the Andorra trip we were both looking forward to our trip to Aix-En-Provence and the Cezanne exhibition. Arriving at Carcassonne rail station at 0715 hrs we went into the refreshment room to buy a couple of bottles of water.

The very attractive 25 or so young woman behind the counter was being aggressively harangued by two young men shouting and gesticulating (as the French do) and grabbing at her. About 20 years old, they seemed typical of a class of young men we notice frequently in the towns who appear somewhat 'swarthier' than others; bellicose beligerent in their manner; and, in groups, can be quite intimidating. The girl was crying and the three or four so-called 'gallant Frenchmen' in the room avoided getting involved.

She moved down the counter towards me and I asked for the water. Almost instantly I had these two blokes pawing me and pulling me away. I stood my ground and spoke firmly in English. They backed away. The girl then came from around the counter and stood with Donna and me. Fortunately, after some minutes a more mature fellow arrived and hustled them away. Five minutes later they were back again until a rail staff person arrived. We left at that stage. From what I could gather the girl had refused, or could not, sell them alcohol.

An upsetting start to the day which troubled us both. Most of these fellows carry knives and I suppose you can understand people not wanting to get involved. There also seems no hesitation in laying their hands on each other which is a bit strange to us, or at least to most of the Australians I know.

Another distressing incident occurred in Aix-En-Provence shortly after we had visited the painting exhibition. We were walking on the narrow footpath along a narrow road which had cars parked right along one side leaving little room for cars to pass through. To give room to a lady approaching on the footpath I stepped sidewards on to the road into the path of a car I had not heard behind me.

This infuriated the 20 something male driver who blasted his horn and gave me an earful of something as he passed by. Around 15 metres up the road he stopped and jumped out of the car and charged towards me yelling and throwing his arms about. He was young, muscular, and about 5 or 6 inches taller than me.

I had a camera around my neck and a day-pack on my back and not in a real good position to defend myself and to look out for Donna. He threw a 'king-hit' at my head which brushed my forehead and knocked off my hat as I swayed away. He continued to scream in what we suppose was classic 'road rage'.

It was not in my interests to fight him (I'd have been belted for sure and discretion being the better part of valour and all that) and as no help was coming from elsewhere, I turned my back and picked up my hat. Perhaps at this stage he realized I was no 'spring chicken' and he stormed back to his car. Thank God he didn't have a gun or a knife!

I think there is a problem in this country which, if you come to think of it, has rarely won anything and fears irrelevance. To take advantage of the weak is a trait of many of the young and perhaps this is a reflection of overcrowded cities and an inability to get on with each other. I think I've mentioned before that the country still seeks a sense of unity. Is there also a racial and religious element to all this? I think so.

Well, that was the worst of it. Unsettling to say the least, however, it should not detract from the general good will, helpfulness, and friendliness we have enjoyed. Even today, at the barbershop, a rugby-type: a fit and healthy local young Frenchman, realized I was foreign and shook my hand and hoped I was enjoying my stay.

Perhaps the men and boys in the countryside have escaped the 'eat or be eaten' attitude of the spivs in the city!

Out of all this, for me, the worst thing is that I am not as competitive on the streets as I might once have been.

The TGV train from Carcassonne was, as usual, spot on time and extremely comfortable. The trip took nearly 3 hours and the weather in Aix-En-Provence was stifling hot. There were people everywhere as the general market was in full flight and of course, this is a prime destination for Americans who could be clearly heard.

On the face of it Aix-En-Provence (pop. 160,000) is an elegant city with fountains splashing away in every square. The golden stone of the buildings and its beautiful light offer a visual harmony which, unfortunately,is diminished by the crowds and traffic. The name comes from Aquae Sextiae, sweet water. Apparently, after an outbreak of cholera in 1720, new sources of water were pumped in and the city built new fountains to deliver it. There is a substantial student population (around 30,000) as the nearly 600 year old university not only teaches the arts and humanities to the French but instructs foreign students in the fine arts of French civilization. However, as one guide-book puts it, Aix can never live down having mocked and laughed at Cezanne, the only real genius it ever produced.

We arrived at the Garnet Museum only to find that you have to go nearly half a kilometre away to buy the tickets to the exhibition. This entailed queuing for an hour before being told the tickets are issued on a time basis and that our period was 1330 to 1430 hrs! We queued at the museum at 1330 hrs and went through the security screening at 1400 hrs! The crowd was such that it was difficult to stop at any painting to get any real appreciation of it. Was it worth it? We would go again tomorrow! The variety of work Cezanne achieved over the five distinct periods of his painting life is remarkable. His ability to bring the very soul of his subject, whether still-life or other, through the use of colour and extraordinary brush work is what genius is all about.

After roaming the streets and window shopping the many well stocked, but expensive shops, we sat in a square outside a wonderful Hotel de Ville. I drank 'pastis' while Donna had 'Orangina' and we enjoyed watching the world go by and some street performers until our train left at 1930. An unusual but enjoyable day.

Today, Friday, we relaxed at home and I went for a haircut at the local barber. He could not speak a word of English but have you ever been to a barber's and not had a conversation? I was able to talk about the time spent in Caunes Minervois; a comparison of Minervois and Bordeau wine; and a deep and meaningful on Cezanne (well shallow at least). Really quite proud of myself!

It's All Good!

20/21 Jun

Andorra is a beautiful little (486 sq kms) country situated between France and Spain and surrounded by the Pyrenees Mountains - the highest peak is Coma Pedrosa at 2942 mtrs. It has a population of around 65,000 and it is the only country in the world where the official language is Catalan. The currency used is the euro.

The capital of the Principality is Andorra La Vella situated some 30 kms by a good road from Pas de la Casa, the main point of entry into the country.

Andorra was founded, according to legend, by Charlemagne in 784 and was a feudal possession of a Spanish bishop and a French count. It is now obviously independent and has a parliament of 28 members. Its defence is a co-responsibility of France and Spain. The principal resources are tourism, commerce and cattle.

Winter would be the main attraction with what we are told are some of the best ski fields in Europe. Evidence of the ski resorts are apparent with most of the suitable slopes covered with ski lifts and chalets. Cross country skiing; snowshoe trekking; dog sleigh trips; snow mobile safaris; and skating are other attractions.

As we are seeing it in summertime, the mountain side pastures are green with cattle grazing upon them. Wild flowers and running creeks add to the beauty. Hiking, cycling and horseriding are summer activities. As is development!

The number of new, and under construction, accommodation buildings, hotels, and commercial activities is truly amazing. It seems there has been a massive injection of money to get all this rolling. There is no income tax payable and so-called 'duty free shopping' certainly pulls in the visitors. Commerce is obviously a very important source of income and there are some 2,000 shops which don't even close for lunch!

We left Caunes-Minervois at 0830 hours and 'TomTom' advised the shortest route as 180 kms but the fastest 245 kms. We took the fastest along the Auto-Routes and arrived at 1130 hours. Driving into the mountains takes a little getting used to as the roads, although good, are narrow and tortuous. There are many large trucks and semis to contend with as roads are the lifeline.

Pas de la Casa is the border town and feels like it with hundreds, perhaps thousands, of day trippers for the cheap shopping. An example is Baileys Irish Cream... 2 x 1 ltr bottles plus 1`x 0.5 ltr bottle - 22 Euros!

We stayed overnight at the Mercure Hotel in the capital, Andorra La Vella. This is a prosperous town full of vitality...and construction. Regrettably, the dining room theme was Italian (we had hoped for Spanish) however, the Gaspacho followed by savoury meats, vegetables and olives was a treat. I went for Osso-Bucco as a main while Donna had cooked-as-you-wait ultra thin slices of marinated beef and a plate of vegetables. The cheeses were varied and of the highest quality. We decided on a red from the Rioja region which is in the central north of Spain, above Madrid. It was by 'Marques de Caceres' and was 85% Tempranillo and 15% Garnacha Tinto and Graciano. It was a ruby red colour with a great nose and full and intense over the palate. It had a nice body and rich flavour. We liked it.

Had an interesting conversation with the Maitre D':

"This is a nice wine. What grapes is it made from?"

"Oh, 50!" He said

"No, no. What grape?"

"Grape?" He said with a quizzical look.

"Cabernet Sauvignon?" I asked.

With understanding, he smiled, "We have sometimes 500 people in dining room!"

"Thank you" I said.

The organization within the Dining Room was however, first class.

We did a little (?) shopping with a Sony DSC - H5, 7.2 megapixel camera for me; Cartier sunglasses for Donna (plus she gets my old digital camera) and, we think, three wonderful gifts for three of our grandchildren. We have helped Andorra prosper.

On the way home we decided to be adventurous and leave the Auto-Route and go 'cross-country'. Taking care not to 'zig' when we should 'zag', we covered some beautiful out-of-the-way rural country, a couple of great tunnels, and one town, Fanjeaux, which we will be back to explore.

This has been a great couple of days with particular memories of massive rocky mountains and rugged valleys carved by ancient glaciers. There is fantastic scenery, a good climate, and friendly people. We would have liked to stay for a day or two longer. No doubt a Winter trip would be outstanding.

Early start in the morning for our train trip to Aix-en-Provence and the Cezanne exhibition...it's all good!

La Lecon Geographique and a Seven-Sided Church

I don't want to tell anyone how to such eggs. However,it seems to me that a little history and geography might be worthwhile to get a better understanding of the nature of the people and the land around us. The fact is France was not always, well, France.

There does not appear to be any trace of human existence until about 50,000 BC. Stone Age people dubbed 'Cro-Magnon' flourished from around 25,000 BC. Let's jump a few years to when Julius Caesar arrived in 58 BC to conquer the land known as Gaul. 500 years later, the Franks gave their name to modern France. Around 760 AD, Charlemagne exerted Frankish control over Roman Gaul and he created an administrative system where Counts and Bishops governed various provinces. Eventually, these provincial governors, whose lands such as Aquitaine and Burgundy had developed separate identities, had power that overshadowed the King. The King's lands were confined to an area around Paris known as the 'Ile de France'.

Through the 11th century, the kings (all who seemed to me to be called Louis) were concerned with restricting Papal interference; checking the English kings' continuing involvement in French territory; halting incursions from Spain; and controlling their vassals. All this was risky business as illustrated by Eleanor of Aquitaine's marriage to Henry II resulting in England controlling a substantial part of the country. After some 'toing and froing' and including such notables as Richard the Lionheart and so on, King Phillippe Auguste won back the lands and became a larger land owner than any other French lord.

Getting through the 'One Hundred Years War' with England; the 30 year 'Wars of Religion'; various kings and cardinals fighting for power; the Revolution; Napoleon; three republics; WWI; WWII; and the unsettling aftermath of war including various presidents of all persuasions, France has emerged as a modern country though still seeking total unity. Phew!

Donna can't believe that I have tried to cover 50,000 years of French history in 3 or 4 paragraphs. At this rate I could do a full Australian history in a couple of sentences. She still thinks I write too much nevertheless.

France has a population of 60 millions. The country is divided into 22 Regions and 96 Departments. Our Region is 'Languedoc-Roussillon' and it comprises 5 Departments covering the mid-Mediterranean south of France: Lozere (48); Gard (30); Herault (34); Aude (11); and Pyrenees-Orientales (66). West of us is the Midi-Pyrenees Region with 8 Departments and to our East is the Provence-Alps-Cote D'Azur with 6 Departments. By the way, you can tell from which Department a car comes by the last two numbers on the number plate.

The President appoints 'prefets' for Territorial administration at regional,departmental, and arrondissement level.

For local government, Regional Councillors represent Departments. At Department level, 'conseillers generaux' are elected to form a 'Conseil General' and sit at the Hotel du Department in the capital of the Department known as the 'prefecture'.

In total there are 35,560 'communes' whose elected 'conseillors municipaux' elect the 'mairie'or mayor. They sit at a Hotel de Ville in the larger towns or otherwise the 'Mairie' or Town Hall.

Our Region, like others, has a number of named areas describing their geographical position e.g. Haute Languedoc (higher Languedoc), or feature e.g. Corbieres (the Mountains). Our general area is called 'Minervois' named after the ancient city of Minerve, a Roman fort dedicated to the Goddess of Wisdom.

Minervois straddles the Aude and Herault departments and forms a vast amphitheatre facing directly south and backing up against the Black Mountains, between Carcassonne and Beziers about 30 kms from the sea. This geographical positioning has a unique effect on grape and wine production however, that will be the focus of a later blog.

We have found this part of the world quite fascinating and not only because of its beauty but on another, more intriguing plane...the people and their special sense of identity. At first we thought it was the Spanish or Catalan influence however, that was badly misconstrued on our part.

The area now known as Languedoc covers only a small part of the lands where the Occitan language or 'langue d'oc', the language of 'oc' was spoken. Today the Occitan movement has a power base stretching between Carcassonne to Nimes. The movement strives for greater independence and recognition of its linguistic and cultural distinctiveness. There is a wide-spread resentment to the bureaucrats of remote and alien Paris.

In recent times this resentment has been a reaction to the bureaucrats determination to drag the area into the 21st century with massive tourist developments and a transformation of the cheap wine industry. However, the memory bank is long and the religious repression against the Protestants around 1700, and the massacres of the Cathars in the 13th century with the subsequent obliteration of the Langue D'Oc (troubadour) civilization remain vivid in the collective consciousness. It is no wonder that this rural and conservative grouping paradoxically vote Left!

No doubt things are changing but the Occitanian identity remains strong.

Fri 16 Jun

Caunes Minervois

Sat 17 Jun

Caunes Minervois. Ingrid dropped in for afternoon tea...two bottles of Malliol Sauvignon Blanc later!

Sun 18 Jun

We felt it was time to do some local exploration so we drove east about 8.5 kms to the village of Rieux Minervois with its population of 2100. Leaving the car on the main street we ventured down towards the Argent Double River and found many buildings around 500 to 600 years old and an old stone bridge across the river leading to a smallish church or chapel that was built in the 9th century and rebuilt in the 15th. Back over our shoulders we could see the high stone walls and structure of a magnificent chateau now used for cultural activities including visiting orchestras and music groups. In many respects the village was like Caunes Minervois but not so Mediterranean. Following the narrow roads to the end of town we came across a very well maintained Hotel de Ville and, across the square, a very remarkable church.

The Church of the Notre Dame was built in the second half of the 12th century on the site of an earlier church of which all trace has disappeared. The plan of the church is a polygon of 14 sides, enclosing a seven-sided sanctuary. As you enter the church the striking feature is that the altar is in the centre of the building with the central hectagon of four squat pillars and three columns surrounding it. The pews are arranged around the altar rather than in front of it. It might be suggested that the arrangement reflects the 'marriage of Heaven and Earth'...the foursquare world and the spiritual triangle. The seven pointed star is a recurring symbol in this area but just what this unique church is doing in plain old Rieux Minervois is a mystery. Dedicated to the Virgin Mary whose wisdom is said to be symbolised by the number 7, the church's perfect east/west alignment is ideally suited for celebrating the Mass.

Proverbs 1:9 says "Wisdom has built her house; she has set up her seven pillars". This answers the question for me about T.E. Lawrence's inspiration for his 'Seven Pillars of Wisdom".

There is no doubt that there is here a deep vein of medieval mysticism, with geometry and allegory beyond us modern mortals. A series of ley lines based on this site have been found. It seems the line of the mid-summer sunrise passes from the altar inside the church through a window and begins an alignment that goes as far as Minerve and beyond, passing several chapels dedicated to St John along the way.

The sculptoral detail inside the church is extraordinary and was done under the direction of a master of the time. Also remarkable is the talent and mathematical nous of the stone masons of the 12th century and particularly with the 7-sided belfry and the roof vaulting connecting the heptagon with the 14-sided exterior wall.

It is amazing what you can find even in the most ordinary looking villages in this part of the world.

Mon 19 Jun

Three admin tasks to complete today and all 'done and dusted'. Firstly was to finalise the tickets to see Al Jarreau (American jazz singer) perform in Carcassonne on 11 Jul,the day before we leave for England and home. Secondly, to arrange train tickets to Aix-en Provence on Thursday for a day trip to visit the Musee Garnet to view the Cezanne exhibition marking 100 years since his death. Finally, organizing accommodation in Andorra as we plan to drive down to this self-governing and nano-sized country tomorrow and stay overnight in this tax free haven.

The Holy Blood and the Holy Grail

Mon 12 Jun

At Caunes Minervois.

Tue 13 Jun

Rested and re-charged we headed south of Carcassonne into the general area known as 'Les Corbieres'. A plateau, rather than a mountain range, the Corbieres is nevertheless very hilly and roads in the area twist and turn as they follow stream beds cut into the slopes. A spiny, sweet-smelling shrub called 'garrigue' is commonly found where there are no trees.

The Corbieres had strategic significance particularly from the 13th century onwards when its fortresses were ready to confront any Spanish incursions. Old castles are prolific and we will visit them on another trip.

Our first stop was at Limoux about 30 kms south of Carcassonne. Here is the hub of production of 'blanquette', a sparkling wine made from Mauzac, Chenin, and Chardonnay grapes using the 'methode champenoise'. We had a tasting at 'Sieur d'Arques' cellar and bought a couple of bottles.

Into the mountains next to Alet-les-Bains. This ancient little village is known for its hot springs which the Romans were first to use for the water's curative powers. An old 17th century bridge crosses the Aude River into the town which, like Caunes-Minervois, has narrow streets and very old stone houses. The Abbey of Notre Dame is a well maintained ruin in the middle of town.

We had hoped to have lunch at the village of Arques some 15 kms away. Alas, it was closed. We took only the time to photograph the 'Donjon d'Arques'. The remains of the walled perimeter and the striking tower of this 13th century Cathar castle are truly beautiful.

Back down the road and up to the very popular Rennes-les-Baines which is built up either side of a thermal spring running through the town. We had a lasagne, pizza, and a demi-pichet of Rose in the town square.

On now to Rennes-le-Chateau. This village is dramatically perched on an isolated hilltop with panoramic views in all directions. Our interest was in the church of the Catholic priest Fr Berenger Sauniere.

First occupied by the Gauls and then by the Romans, Rhedae, as it was then known, was a fortified stronghold. It was caught up in frequent and often religious conflicts. Exhausted by these wars, Rhedae finally succumbed to the plague and sank into virtual oblivion.

In the late 19th century, Berenger Sauniere was appointed priest of the somewhat run-down parish. He restored the church and embarked on an ambitious series of building projects. He built into the church and grounds many mysterious symbols. The presbytory, gardens, walls and especially the library were outstanding however, where did he get the money from? Some say he found the Holy Grail or reference to it and the church paid for his silence hence the 'Da Vinci Code'. Others maintain he found a Cathar treasure. The lust for treasure in the area has been so great that it has been necessary to pass regulations to stop people digging for treasure around the town and church!

Overall an interesting day and we are looking forward to a return visit to see the many castles.

Wed 14 Jun

At Caunes Minervois.

Thu 15 Jul.

I have been using 'Skype' to talk via the computer particularly to Julie-Anne and Phillip. This is a great program and allows for extended and free conversations provided the other party has downloaded Skype. Today I purchased $16 AUD of 'Skypeout' time which allows calls to any telephone. The rate from France to Australia is 0.017 cents per minute. An unexpected benefit was the better quality of sound. I have rigged the speakers I use with my Ipod to the laptop and use the microphone from my headset. Highly recommended.

"This is what we came for, Phillip"

Sat 10 Jun

I finished a wonderful book today as we continue to 'veg-out' after what has been 50 or so days on the go. The book, 'Signs of the Heart...Love and Death in Languedoc', was written by Christopher Hope, our landlady's partner. Christopher hails from South Africa and his no nonsense approach to politics there saw him have his citizenship revoked, no passport, and an exit visa. Some 30 years ago then, he made his way to France eventually settling in Caunes-Minervois. His book barely disguises C-M as the village of Kissac and ,in an extremely entertaining way, he describes the country and people; their idiosyncracies and foibles; their French uniqueness; and the overall effect the region and its people has on any who venture into it. The book was broadcast in part on the BBC and extracts were printed in the British Daily Telegraph. I envy his ability to draw vivid, magnificent pictures in so few words.

Christopher has written nine novels and three shorter fiction as well as two non-fiction books. His work also includes poetry and books for children. He has won several awards for his writing and was short-listed for the Booker Prize in 1992. We have recently read a major article by him published in The Guardian relating to politics in South Africa and in particular the case of the Presidential hopeful involved in a rape case.

This evening Donna prepared one of her marvelous tossed salads seasoned with her latest dressing potion. I barbecued two luscious hunks of Atlantic salmon and with a bottle of Domaine Maillot Sauvignon Blanc, and bread of course, we sat in the courtyard and enjoyed a perfect meal, in perfect company, in perfect weather. After a quiet minute of reflection Donna said "This is what we came for, Phillip".

Sun 11 Jun

There is really no rest for the wicked as housekeeping and the like must go on. The linen and clothes are washed and ironed however we still find time to sit again in the courtyard under a warm blue sky with just a gentle breeze. I have never done so before, but I finished a Sidney Sheldon novel in one day!

Our dear friend Dee, gave us a book on French cheeses before we left Australia. This has been an inspired gift as we tend to give it a work-out on a daily basis. The number of cheeses in the supermarkets is staggering and some sort of background is necessary if one is to get the best out of the array. Of interest at present are cheeses from the Auvergne mountains near central France. Both Cantal and Salers are made from cows milk with Salers from cows that have grazed on Summer pastures while Cantal is made from the milk of the other seasons. Cantal feels heavy and moist. The salt that is added to it brings out thy full flavour. A well-ripened Cantal has a strong taste, while a young cheese has the sweet taste of raw milk. Both cheeses are pressed into blocks of 35-45 kilos!

On the subject of milk. The only cold milk you can buy from supermarkets is full-cream. Fat reduced or 'demi-ecreme' milk comes off the shelf as UHT or long-life product. Takes a bit of getting used to.

Paris...Into Open Arms

It would be romantic to begin this episode of our story along the lines that 'I left her at the airport last August and dreamed that once again I might return to her seductive beauty and open arms...'. I won't because that would be just too corny!

Sat 3 Jun

TomTom was right on the button as it delivered us to the Toulouse Matabiau rail station. The TGV is a superb train with, in first class, all the comforts of an airline's business class without the hostesses. The seats are spacious and the ride is very quiet and smooth considering it is capable of speeds up to 300 kph. The trip to Paris via Bordeau took 5 hours. We traveled using a Rail Europe 'France Saverpass' which provides for travel to any destination on any 3 days within a month. Our First Class pass cost 320 Euros.

Our apartment is on Rue Vielle du Temple in the 'Marais' district situated on the Right Bank. The area has become trendy over the past few years and the many boutique type shops, bars, and cafes are well patronized. The Marais is also a focal point for the Jewish community who were expelled from France in the Middle Ages. When they returned after the Revolution they chose this area to settle in. Victor Hugo and Picasso lived in the area and Picasso's house, which is now a museum, is nearby.

The Marais also hosts a large and active homosexual community which you can hardly miss. It was interesting to find that some bars are designated 'straight-friendly'!

Beyond the narrow streets, much of the accommodation is built around large and well-maintained courtyards. Entry from the street is through large and impressive doors set into sturdy stone walls. Our building probably dates from the early 1900s and our apartment was on the 1st floor. It had an entrance hall, living room, kitchen/dining room, bathroom and double bedroom on the first level and our loft double bedroom was up a flight of very, very steep stairs. Our window offered great views of life down on the street.

After settling in we all went for an evening stroll along the Seine.

Sun 4 Jun

We had decided that the four of us together would not work for touring as we had different expectations and visit requirements. However, we saw generally the same things albeit on different days.

Donna and I had planned to spend our first day at the Louvre. As we approached it along the riverside we saw that it was extremely crowded and there was a queue at least 800 metres long... far too many people for us to enjoy a visit. The first Sunday of each month is free admission and the hordes were lapping it up. We decided to walk home the long way.

Adjacent to the entrance to the Louvre is a mini Arc de Triomphe with a chariot and horses on its top, known as the Arc du Carrousel. It was built for Napoleon in 1806/09. Bands and orchestras from around Europe were playing under the Arc and marching girls, baton twirlers, and pom pom teams performed to the music. They drew a big crowd and were fun to watch. Stretching from this point runs an axis along the Jardins des Tuileries, onto the Champs-Elysees, and up to the majestic Arc de Triomphe. The gardens were once the setting for a palace and are well laid out and form a gallery for many sculptures and other works of art. Fountains surrounded by large circular pools provide a place for children to push toy sailing boats into the wind.

At the end of the gardens, and just before the Place de la Concorde, is the Musee de L'Orangerie. After a quick lunch on the run of crepes from one of the many food trailers we visited the museum. A great many of the more modern artists are represented including Cezane, Renoir, Modgliani, Derain, Utrillo and Picasso. However, the 'piece de resistance' is the large elliptical gallery housing Monet's massive 'Nympheas' masterpiece. The beautifully coloured canvas of over 90 metres is in 8 panels each of which covers over 10 metres on each of the four sides of each gallery. Magnificent!

From the L'Orangerie we passed through the Place de la Concorde which is the city's largest square. In 1792 the centre statue of Louis XV was replaced with the guillotine for Louis XVI, Marie-Antoinette, and many more luckless souls. The major elements now include large and very French lamp posts, the Luxor Obelisk, and wonderfully ornate fountains describing navigation over the seas.

Rather than continue up to the Arc de Triomphe we turned right along the Rue Royale towards La Madeleine. We notice on both sides of the road the shop fronts of major brands such as Chanel, Dior, Bvlgary, and so on. It was Sunday and they were closed. In fact we are surprised at how much of France is 'closed' at any given time. Searching for succinctness to describe France in general and Paris in particular, the words 'closed', 'holiday', and 'out-of-order' spring to mind. How they manage to achieve so much with the amount of 'down-time' evident will probably always be a mystery to us 'etrangers'.

La Madeleine began as a church in 1764 then, on Napoleon's orders became a Temple to the 'Grand Armee' in 1806. It became a church again in 1845 and is the venue now for many society weddings. The squarish looking building is ringed by huge fluted Corinthian columns. Inside we listened to the massive organ rehearsing for a performance later in the evening. Also impressive was the major painting in the chancel depicting the history of Christianity with Napoleon prominent in the foreground!

As we continue through the Marais towards home, the existence of the Jewish community becomes apparent. A marble tablet affixed to a boys' school poignantly reminds of the 140 students taken by the 'barbarous Nazis with the aid of the Vichy Government' during WWII and only 8 surviving. There are some long memories here. I think the philosophy is to forgive but never to forget.

Mon 5 Jun

The Louvre is on our agenda for today and rather than walk we take the 'Metro' from the 'Hotel de Ville' station down the road. Barbara had organized three-day Paris travel tickets which allow for train and bus travel throughout Paris. I think all the passes I have talked about can only be bought in Australia before leaving. The Metropolitan (Metro) is fast, cheap, clean, efficient underground rail transport which only takes a short time to understand. The frequency of trains is the first thing you notice with no more than 3 minutes to wait at any time. Furthermore, every train we caught (they become habit forming) was at least 50% full and more often 80-90%. The only down side we could find was that many stations only had steps rather than escalators. Moving from one line to the other, in the same station, can mean three levels. Difficult if carrying luggage but overall a score of 9/10. Like Singapore and London, the Metro sets a good example for growing cities.

The Louvre has cast a spell over Donna and me and this visit served to increase the enchantment. We had a quick look at our old favourites: the Winged Victory; the jewels and paintings in the Galleri de Apollon; Mona Lisa; and some Dutch and Flemish paintings. The main interest for us this time however was the history of the Louvre; Ancient Egypt; Coptic Egypt; Islamic arts; and the Decorative Arts. As for the latter, we concentrated on Napoleon III's opulent apartments. It becomes apparent when you look at the wealth and self-indulgence of the pre-Revolution period just why the attitudes of the common people were as they were. Sad really, as there is evidence all over Paris of the mobs' desire to destroy and much beauty was lost forever.

At the end of this, our second visit, we realise we have not yet seen the half of it. One can charge through the galleries and scan the place. To stop, and really look and appreciate, is the real pleasure. Maybe that's the hook for another visit to France.

Tue 6 Jun

The four of us are off together today until lunch to visit Notre Dame and Les Invalides. Surprising to many is that the Cathedral Notre Dame de Paris is built on an island in the middle of the Seine. The original St Etienne Basilica was built in the 6th century upon an old Gallo-Roman temple site but, by 1160 it was considered old and not befitting the King so it was demolished. In its place the construction of a Gothic style cathedral commenced in 1163. Over the years the building developed and it can be seen that different architects built in different ideas. The two major towers were completed in about 1245. During the Revolution, the monumental and decorative statues were badly damaged. By the 1800's the Cathedral was in a poor state. Fortuitously, Victor Hugo's novel 'The Hunchback of Notre Dame" was published in 1831 and this drew attention to the building's condition and restoration commenced. Interestingly, Henry VI of England was crowned here and Napoleon made himself Emperor here. In 1909, the beatification of Joan of Arc was hosted in the church and her statue is inside.

Graham and I climbed the 300 odd steps to the top of the towers where we saw at close hand the bells in their wooden belfrys as well as the various 'chimeras' or fantastic statues that peer out over the church. The 340 steps back down the 69 metre high tower were nearly as demanding as those going up.

Donna was impressed with the stained glass in the Cathedral and in particular the massive 'rose' window.

Les Invalides was built as a hospital by Louis XIV for wounded soldiers and at one stage 6000 invalids were housed within it. The complex contains a unique double church. One end is for the soldiers whilst the other was built for the King and each has its own separate entrance. Since 1840, the latter has been a mausoleum containing not only Napoleon's red porphyry tomb but also those of his relatives and generals.

Les Invalides is the home of France's impressive war museum exhibiting an awesome array of weapons, armoury, and militaria. Surprising to see was the armour fitted for the Kings as children.

We had a most respectable 'plat de jour' at the nearby Cafe Vauban named after a French general. In the afternoon Donna and I took the Metro to the Opera House station to find Rue Scribe,the French home to American Express where, at long last we were able to cash our Travelers Cheques. As I said in an earlier blog "never again"!

Two Metro trains later and we arrived at the base of the Arc de Triomphe. Built from 1806-1836 on a decree from Napoleon, the triumphal Arc was constructed in a Roman style to the glory of the Grande Armee. Between 1833-1836 some 20 artists completed sculptures on the sides and face of the monument to represent significant military events. The 'Unknown Soldier' lies beneath the main archway and a daily ceremony involving the Flame of Remembrance is conducted. We got the elevator to the top of the structure and enjoyed great views of the city and of the seemingly endless late afternoon traffic. For those that must know, the Arc is 50 metres high, 45 metres wide, and 29 metres beneath the vault of the archway.

This had been a big day and sleep came easily.

Wed 27 Jun

Donna is keen to see the stained glass in the Cathedral once again so we take a leisurely stroll down the Rue Vielle du Temple, across the bridge, and onto the 'Ile de la Cite'. In fact this is where Paris began around 250 BC when a tribe of Celtic Gauls, the Parisii, settled on this convenient bridging point of the Seine. Romans and others followed and it went on to become the centre of religious and political power into the Middle Ages.

On the area in front of the Notre Dame known as the 'parvis' you can see the traces of the old streets. There is also a brass marker, Point Zero, set into the ground and from which all distances in France are measured.

Under the parvis is the remarkable 'La Crypte Archeologique'. Excavation in the 1960s revealed 16 centuries of history layered one upon the other. Roman quaysides, ramparts, medieval cellars, shops, and pavements can be identified. From the 18th century is the outline of the Foundlings Hospital and the 19th century contribution is a sewerage system. We found the very practical floor heating systems of the 16th century houses fascinating. Built into the foundation of the houses were vent tunnels connected to an external furnace. Hot air was channeled through the vents and into terracotta flues which were built up under the stone floors. Very clever.

We took the Metro to near the foot of the Eiffel Tower and had lunch on the footpath outside a small cafe. We met a strikingly attractive young Aboriginal woman traveling with her white-skinned father. We had a delightful conversation with them and found they were originally from Darwin but lately from Brisbane. She was on her way to a scholarship in the USA whilst her father was off to Geneva, then Estonia, to visit relatives. We also had a great discussion about cricket with a fellow from Liverpool (UK) and his Dominican Republic wife. They were visiting Paris for the day from England.

We boarded a Seine river-cruise boat for a one hour round trip. Quite a good way to get a different perspective of the city. Not the least surprising was the number of people living in small tents along the river walks and under the bridges. Impressive also was the 20-something hostess on the boat who effortlessly swung between five languages.

A call from Shane and Lynnelle saw us in a taxi and down to the Louvre for coffee and a chat. Their stay in Cannes was obviously very much enjoyed. Lynnelle was denied entry into the casino in Monaco because she was not carrying her passport! The six of us had dinner at the 'Philosophe' restaurant near our apartment where the mains varied between lamb, steak, prawns, and monk-fish, the so called poor man's lobster... Donna and Barbara were delighted with it.

Thu 8 Jun

Graham and Barbara left for London by the Eurostar train and we had an uneventful TGV trip back to Toulouse and then drive to Caunes-Minervois. We were surprised to find a chill in the air compared to the warm, cloudless weather in Paris. Well, almost cloudless. I recall that after 9/11, planes were grounded across the USA and researchers were able to measure the 'dimming effect' when there were no aircraft vapour trails. The study revealed that an extraordinary amount of light is dimmed and at the same time, heat from the earth is held below the vapour line level. Fortunately in Australia we don't see this as much as is apparent in the USA and Europe. Although the weather was meteorologically cloudless, we never saw a clear sky!

Fri 9 Jun

A deserved rest at home and composing the blog.

Off To Gay Paree

We leave Caunes-Minervois for Paris tomorrow morning at 0630 hrs. The drive to Toulouse to catch the super fast train will take about 1.5 hours and we should arrive in Paris at about 1500 hrs. Graham and Barbara have organized an apartment in the 'Marais' district so we are not far from all the action. I will compose the 'Paris Blog' on Donna's and my return to C-M on 8 June. Barbara and Graham will visit London before heading back to Australia around 13 June.

In the meantime I need to bring us up to date.

Thu 01 Jun

B & G have not seen Narbonne and the forty kms drive seems a cinch after Wednesday's effort to Roquefort and back. Different to our last trip to Narbonne is the Thursday market. Market Day is a way of life over here with every village and major centre having a food and produce affair or a more general goods market on a designated day of the week. I think I might have already mentioned the Carcassonne food market where we bought half a kilo of 40 Euro cheese!

At Narbonne it was general goods and not unlike those seen around Australia, save for the size and variety of goods available. The stallholders are extremely well organized with some even selling from specially adapted semi-trailers. The colour and activity was a delight and I know Barbara has a Grandmother's surprise to take home. Donna and I bought some leather goods.

Before settling in to a brasserie for lunch, B & G were treated to the Bishop's palaces and to the stunning Cathedral St Just et St Pasteur. The gardens surrounding the church are blooming and it was a delight to return.

Lunch 'al fresco' on the edge of the city square or 'place de l'Hotel de Ville' was a pleasant surprise in that the food preparation was as good as most quality restaurants in Australia. For main courses, Donna and Graham had truly delicious lasagne, Barbara had fish of two varieties, and I went for duck on endives cut in the taglietelle fashion. The ladies could not resist nougat icecream floating in a raspberry sauce. Graham and I thought the Corbieres AOC rose was just right for the warm sunny spot we had.

When we got home, Donna pulled a trick from up her sleeve with an evening meal of the 'Holy Trinity' accompanied by a Roquefort quiche she had bought yesterday. Wine was a German riesling from Alsace Lorraine followed by a local Chateau Donjon blend.

Fri 3 Jun

It was decided a few days ago that we would celebrate the final day together in Caunes-Minervois with a lunch at the extraordinary Hotel d'Alibert under the relaxed but quality care of the host, Frederic. However, before lunch Graham and I visited Christophe at the Domaine Maillols in Villegly. His first red vintage is due to be bottled and it was evident that he is very excited about it all. He first must get approval to place the Minervois appellation on his labels. This requires his wine being assessed by 20 tasters to ensure it meets the necessary level of quality. We tasted from all his tanks and were treated to a sample from his one and only French oak barrel. We wish him and his wife Annabelle good luck.

With a Spring clean of the house done, we arrived at the restaurant at 1230 hrs. After taking our orders, Frederic personally selected the wines he believed would best set off our food. The white was a local 'vin de pays' which we probably would not have given a seconds thought to from the wine list. This 2001 Domaine Bonhomme perfectly complemented our entrees of a selection of meat and pate (Graham), Omelete (Donna), Gazpacho (Barbara), and Pate Foie (Phillip).

When you thought it couldn't get better, out came a perfect Osso Bucco for Graham, Duck l'Orange for Donna, Lamb for Barbara, and Guinea Fowl for yours truly. Sauces in France never,ever mask the basic taste of the beautifully cooked food. Indeed the sauce is a food in its own right. The accompanying vegetables not only tasted superb but looked as they tasted. We were all impressed with the potatoes which Frederic insisted were only prepared in cream and a light garlic. We begged to differ but he kept his secret...we suspect perhaps nutmeg. Whatever it was, it tasted brilliant as did the straight Syrah red from Domaine Pugol (2002)

Our course of cheese, which always comes before desert, was basted (?) in a clear honey. Deserts included brulees, a caramel dish,and for me a combination of 'pastis' and 'licorice' icecream. We were all feeling at ease with the world as we sipped our espressos to conclude a memorable lunch in perfect surroundings. Luckily for Donna and I, we will be able to return to the scene over the next 40 days or so.